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ACCOUNT 

OF 

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 

TO THE 

WEST COAST OF COREA, 

AND 

THE GREAT LOO-CHOO ISLAND; 

AN APPENDIX, 

CONTAINING 

CHARTS, AND VARIOUS HYDROGRAPHICAL AND SCIENTIFIC NOTICES. 

BY CAPTAIN BASIL HALL, 

HOYAL NAVY, F. H. S. LOND. & EDIN. 

MEMBEH OF THE ASIATIC SOCIETY OF CALCUTTA, OF THE UTERAHY SOCIETY OF BOMBAY, 
AND OF THE SOCIETY OF AKTS AND SCIENCES AT BATAVIA. 

AND 

A VOCABULARY OF THE LOO-CHOO LANGUAGE, 

I 

BY H. J. CLIFFORD, ESQ. 

UEUTENANT HOYAL NAVY. 

LONDON: 

JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE-STREET. 

1818. 

 TO 

CAPTAIN MURRAY MAXWELL, 

Itnígít CDompanítm oí tje 33atJ, 

το WHOSE 

ABILITY IN CONDUCTING THIS VOYAGE, 

ZEAL IN GIVING ENCOURAGEMENT TO EVERY INQUIRY, 

SAGACITY IN DISCOVERING THE DISPOSITION OP THE NATIVES, 

AND ADDRESS IN GAINING THEIR CONFIDENCE AND GOOD WILL, 

IS TO BE ATTRIBUTED 

WHATEVER MAY BE FOUND INTERESTING OR USEFUL 
IN THE FOLLOWING PAGES, 

THIS WORK 

IS MOST RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED, 

BY 

THE AUTHORS, 

f 

 PREFACE. 

THE following work contains a Narrative of the 
Voyage to the West Coast of Corea, and the 
Great Loo-choo Island ; an Appendix, containing 
Nautical details: and a Vocabulary of the Lan- 

J . v 

guage spoken at Loo-choo. 

In drawing up the Narrative from journals 
written at the time, I have derived great as 
sistance from notes made by Lieutenant H. J. 
Clifford, of the Navy. This officer obtained 
permission from the Admiralty to accompany 
me, though on half pay, and having no specific 
duty to perform, he was enabled to devote him 
self entirely to the acquisition of knowledge; 
and had it in his power to record many interest 
ing occurrences of the voyage, which the nu- 

 vin 

PREFACE. 

PREFACE. 

IX 

mérous duties of my station left me but little 
leisure to observe or describe. 

All the Charts, Tables, and Nautical Notices 
have been placed in an Appendix, in order to 
avoid the interruption which such details are apt 
to occasion when inserted in ajournai; and the 
Nautical reader will perhaps consider it advan 
tageous, to have this part of the subject set 
apart, and condensed, instead of being scattered 
over the pages of the narrative. 

I am indebted to Mr. Clifford for very import 
ant assistance in collecting and arranging the 
materials which form this Appendix. 

The,northern part of the Chart of the Yellow 
Sea, given in the Appendix, was taken from a 
Chart by Captain Daniel Ross, of the Bombay 
marine, the scientific and able surveyor com 
manding the squadron which the Honourable 

East India Company, in the spirit of a liberal 
and enlarged policy, have employed for upwards 
of nine years, in surveying the China Seas. 

The Vocabulary is exclusively compiled by 
Mr. Clifford, who took the greatest pains to 
collect words and sentences in common use; 
and though, from the shortness of our stay, this 
part of the work is necessarily incomplete, it is 
hoped that a future voyager will derive consi 
derable assistance from it, in his intercourse with 
the natives. 

The drawings of scenery and costume were 
made by Mr. William Havell, the eminent artist 
who accompanied the Embassy, from sketches 
taken on the spot, by Mr. C. W. Browne, mid 
shipman of the Alceste, and myself. 

Nothing respecting the west side of Corea 

has hitherto been accurately known to Europeans. 

b 

. 

 χ 

PREFACE. 

The coast laid down in most Charts has been 
taken from the celebrated map of the Jesuits, 

which is very correct in what relates to China. 

«/ ' 

but erroneous with respect to Corea. The Je 
suits, indeed, did not survey this country, but 
have inserted it in their map, I believe, from 
Japanese authorities. 

Captain Broughton in his voyage to the 
North Pacific Ocean visited the South Coast of 
Corea, and his account of the inhabitants agrees 
with ours in most particulars. 

The same distinguished voyager visited the 
Great Loo-choo Island in 1797? after having 
been shipwrecked near Typinsan, one of its de 
pendant islands. He was at Napakiang for a 
few days, and his account of the natives is highly 
interesting. 

There is an article by Pere Gaubil, a mis- 

PREFACE. 

XI 

sionary, on the subject of the Loo-choo Islands, 
in the 23d vol. of the " Lettres Edifiantes et 

• 

Curieuses." It is a translation from the official 
report of a Chinese embassador sent to Loo-choo 
by the Emperor Kang Hi ; our opportunities, 
however, were not sufficient to enable us to judge 
of the accuracy of this curious memoir. 

 CONTENTS. 

NARRATIVE. 

CHAPTER I. 

H. M. S. Alceste and Lyra leave the Yellow Sea on a Voyage of Dis 
covery—Sir James Hall's Group on the Coast of Corea—Unsociable Cha 
racter of the Natives—Hutton's Island—Interesting geological Structure— 
Anchor near the Main Land—Corean Chief's Visit—Objections made to 
Strangers landing—Distress of the Chief—His Character—Departure from 
Basil's Bay—Clusters of Islands—Murray's Sound—Deserted Corean Village 
—View from the Summit of a high Peak—Interview with the Coreans— 
Peculiarities of their Character—Language—Erroneous geographical Po 
sition of this Coast—Leave Corea , . . Page 1 

CHAPTER II. 

Enter the Japan Sea—Sulphur Island—Volcano—See the Great Loo-choo 
Island—Lyra nearly wrecked—First Interview with the Natives—Anchor 
at Napakiang—Natives crowd on Board—Their interesting Appearance 
and Manners—Several Chiefs visit the Alceste—Land to make Ob 
servations—Astonishment of the Natives—Six Chiefs visit the Ships— 
Alceste and Lyra proceed farther in Shore—A Chief of high Rank waits 
upon Captain Maxwell—Return his Visit—Feast—Projected Survey of the 
Anchorage—Visit Reef Island—The Lyra sent to look for another Harbour 

: 

 XIV 

CONTENTS. 

—Arrangements for landing the Alceste's Stores—Description of the Temple 
and Garden—First Acquaintance with Madera—Study of the Language 58 

CHAPTER III. 

The Lyra sent to survey the Island of Loo-choo—Discovery of Port Melville 

—Description of that Harbour, and the Villages on its Banks—Lyra 
nearly wrecked—Interview with Natives at the South Point—Return to 
Napakiang—Behaviour of the Natives at a Seaman's Funeral—Mádera's 
Character and Conduct—Sociable Habits of the Natives—Dinner given to 
the Chiefs of the Island by Captain Maxwell—Mádera's Behaviour on this 
Occasion—Two Women seen—A Lady of Rank visits the Boatswain's Wife 

—Captain Maxwell fractures his Finger—Loo-choo Surgeon—Concern of 
the Natives—Visit of the Prince—Discussion about the King of Loo-choo's 
Letter—Madera appears in a new Character—Feast given by the Prince— 
List of Supplies given to the Ships—Behaviour of the Prince on taking 
Leave—Preparations for Departure—Mádera's Distress—Last Interview \\ith 
the Chiefs—Brief Memorandums upon the Religion, Manners, and Customs 
of Loo-choo—Advice to a Stranger visiting this Island . . 135 

APPENDIX. 

Notice explanatory of a Chart of the Gulf of Pe-chee-lee . . v 
Notice to accompany the Chart of the West Coast of Corea . . χ 
Notice to accompany the general Chart of the Great Loo-choo Island in the 
Japan Sea, and the Charts of Napakiang Roads and Port Melville . xvii 
Observations made at the Observatory at Napakiang . . . xxix 
Table of Observations made with Dr. Wollaston's Dip Sector : with an En 
graving, and a Description of this Instrument, and Directions for its 
Use ...... xxxi 

Meteorological Journal, from July to November 1816, while the Ships were 
in the Yellow and Japan Seas ..... li 

Abstract of the Lyra's Voyage, from leaving England tilljier Return ; shew 
ing the Distance between the different Places at which she touched, and the 
Time taken in performing each Passage . . . cix 
Geological Memorandum ; being a Description of the Specimens of Rocks col- 

CONTENTS. 

xv 

lected at Macao and the Ladrone Islands, on the Shores of the Yellow Sea, 
the West Coast of Corea, and the Great Loo-choo Island . . cxix 

VOCABULARY. 

PART I.—English and Loo-choo words. 

PAKT II.—Sentences in English and Loo-choo, with a literal Translation. 

Loo-choo and Japanese Numerals—Names of Persons at Napakiang—Names 

of Places—Days of the Moon—Orders of Rank—Tattoo Marks—Hours of 

the Day. 

Comparison between the Japanese and Loo-choo Languages. 
Comparison between the Loo-choo and Insu Languages. 
Comparison between the Loo-choo, Japanese, and Insu Languages. 
Corean Words. 

 DIRECTIONS FOR PLACING THE PLATES. 

Sulphur Island, to face the Title Page. 
Corean Chief and Secretary 
Napakiang 

Loo-choo Chief and his two Sons 
Priest and Gentleman of Loo-choo 
The Prince of Loo-choo 
Scene after the Prince's Feast 
Gentleman of Loo-choo in his Cloak 
Bridge of Napakiang 

To face Page 16 

. 77 

. 97 

. 132 

. 176 

. 196 

. 215 

APPENDIX. 

Chart of the Gulf of Pe-chee-lee 
Coast of Corea 

Chart of the Great Loo-choo Island 
Napakiang Roads . · . 
Port Melville 
Wollaston's Dip Sector 

ν 

X 

xix 
xxi 

. xxiv 
xxxiii 

ERRATA. 

Page 1, line 2 from bottom, for llth August, read Qth August. 
Page 60, top line, for was, read saw. 

APPENDIX. 

Meteorological Journal.—Longitude on the 1st Sept. for 124.20, read 124.48. 
The longitudes in the Met. Journ. from the 3d to the 7th of Sept. inclusive are 
too small by 15'. 

VOCABUJLARY. 

For Tatesee, read Tatsee. 

For Teetesep, read Teetsee. 

For Meetesee, read Meetsee. 

For Eeotesee, read Eeotsee. 

For Eeyatesee, read Eeyatsee. 

For opposite, read under, in the note on the word Hour. 

VOYAGE 

TO THE 

WEST COAST OF COREA AND THE LOO-CHOO 

ISLANDS. 

CHAPTER I. 

H. M. S. Alceste and Lyra leave the Yellow Sea on a Voyage of Discovery— 
Sir James Hall's Group on the Coast of Corea—Unsociable Character of the 
Natives—Hutton's Island—Interesting geological Structure—Anchor near 
the Main Land—Corean Chiefs Visit—Objections made to Strangers land 
ing—Distress of the Chief—His Character—Departure from Basil's Bay— 
Clusters of Islands—Murray's Sound—Deserted Corean Village—View from 
the Summit of a high Peak—Interview with the Coreans—Peculiarities of 
their Character—Language—Erroneous geographical Position of this Coast 
—Leave Corea. 

THE embassy to China, under the Right Honourable Lord 
Amherst, left England in his Majesty's frigate Alceste, 
Captain Murray Maxwell, C. B., on the 9th of February, 
1816, and landed near the mouth of the Pei-ho river, in the 
Yellow Sea, on the llth of August. Shortly afterwards the 
Alceste and Lyra sloop of war, which had accompanied the 

B 

 2 VOYAGE TO THE 

embassy, proceeded to the coast of Corea, the eastern 
boundary of the Yellow Sea ; for as these ships were not 
required in China before the return of the Embassador by 
land to Canton, it was determined to devote the interval 
to an examination of some places in those seas, of which 
little or no precise information then existed. The following 
pages give the details of this voyage. 

1st of September.—This morning at daylight the land 
of Corea was seen in the eastern quarter. Having stood 
towards it, we were at nine o'clock near three high islands, 
differing in appearance from the country we had left, being 
wooded to the top, and cultivated in the lower parts, but 

not in horizontal terraces as at the places we had last visited 

• 
in China. We proceeded to the southward of the group, 

and anchored in a fine bay at the distance of two or three 
miles from the southern island. Shortly after anchoring, a 
l3oat came from the shore with five or six natives, who 
Stopped, when within fifty yards of the brig, and looking at 
us with an air of curiosity and distrust, paid no attention to 
the signs which were made to induce them to come along 
side. They expressed no alarm when we went to them in 
Our boat ; and on our rowing towards the shore, followed u& 
till we landed near a village. The inhabitants came in a 
body to meet us, forming an odd assemblage, different in 

COAST OF COREA. 3 

many respects from any thing we had seen ; their colour 
was a deep copper, and their appearance forbidding, and 
somewhat savage. Some men, who appeared to be superior 
to the rest, were distinguished by a hat, the brim of which 
was nearly three feet in diameter, and the crown, which was 
about nine inches high, and scarcely large enough to admit 
the top of the head, was shaped like a sugar-loaf with the 
end cut off. The texture of this strange hat is of a fine 
open work like the dragon-fly's wing; it appears to be 
made of horse-hair varnished over, and is fastened under 
the chin by a band strung with large beads, mostly black 
and white, but occasionally red or yellow. Some of the 
elderly men wore stiff gauze caps over their hair, which was 
formed into a high conical knot on the top of the head. 
Their dress consisted of loose wide trowsers, and a sort of 
frock reaching nearly to the knee, made of a coarse open grass 
cloth, and on their feet neat straw sandals. They were of 
the middle size, remarkably well made, and robust looking. 
At first they expressed some surprise on examining our 
clothes, but afterwards took very little interest in any thing 
belonging to us. Their chief anxiety was to get rid of us 
as soon as possible. This they expressed in a manner too 
obvious to be mistaken ; for, on our wishing to enter the 
village, they first made motions for us to go the other way ; 

 4 VOYAGE TO THE 

and when we persevered, they took us rudely by the arms 
and pushed us off. Being very desirous to conciliate them, 
we shewed no impatience at this treatment; but our for 
bearance had no effect; and after a number of vain at 
tempts to make ourselves understood, we went away not 
much pleased at their behaviour. A Chinese *, who accom 
panied us, was of no use, for he could not read what the 
Coreans wrote for him, though in the Chinese character; 
and of their spoken language he did not understand a word. 
On leaving these unsociable villagers, we went to the top 
of the highest peak on the island, the ascent being easy by 
a winding foot-path. From this elevation we saw a number 

of islands to the eastward, and the main land at a great 

/ 
distance beyond them. The top of the hill being covered 

with soft grass and sweet-smelling shrubs, and the air, 
which had been of a suffocating heat below, being here 
cool and refreshing, we were tempted to sit down to our 
pic-nic dinner. We returned by the other side of the hill ; 
but there being no path, and the surface rocky and steep, 
and covered with a thick brush-wood, we were not a little 
scratched and bruised before we reached a road which runs 
along the north face of the hill about midway. By fol 
lowing this, we came to a spot from whence we were en- 

* A servant of the embassy, left behind by accident at the Pei-ho river. 

COAST OF COREA. 5 

abled to look down upon the village, without being ourselves 

t 

perceived by the natives. The women, who had deserted the 
village on our landing, had now returned ; most of them were 
beating rice in wooden mortars, and they had all children 
tied on their backs. On a sudden they quitted their work 
and ran off to their huts, like rabbits in a warren ; and in 
a few minutes we saw one of the ship's boats row round the 
point of land adjacent to the village, which explained the 
cause of their alarm. After remaining for some time in 
expectation of seeing the women again, we carne down to 
the village, which the natives now permitted· us to pas« 
through. On this occasion one of the gentlemen of our party 
saw, for an instant, a woman at no great distance, whose feet 

\ 

he declared were of the natural size, and not cramped as 
in China. The village consists of forty houses rudely con 
structed of reeds plaistered with mud, the roofs are of all 
shapes, and badly thatched with reeds and straw, tied down 
by straw ropes. These huts are not disposed in streets, but 
are scattered about without order, and without any neatness, 
or cleanliness, and the spaces between them are occupied by 
piles of dirt and pools of muddy water. The valley in which 
this comfortless village is situated is, however, pretty enough, 
though not wooded ; the hills forming it are of an irregular 
shape, and covered at top with grass and sweet-scented 
flowers; the lower parts are cultivated with millet, buck- 

 6 VOYAGE TO THE 

wheat, a kind of French bean* and tobacco, which last grows 
in great quantity ; and here and there is a young oak-tree. 

We saw bullocks and poultry ¿ but the natives would 
not exchange them for our money, or for any thing we had 
to offer. They refused dollars when offered as a present, 
and, indeed, appeared to set ho value upon any thing we 
shewed them, except wine glasses; but even these they 
were unwilling to receive. One of the head men appeared 
particularly pleased with a glass, which, after a good deal of 
persuasion, he accepted, but, in about five minutes after, 
he, and another man to whom a tumbler had been given, 
came back and insisted upon returning the presents; and 
then, without waiting for further persuasion, returned to 
the village, leaving with us only one man, who, as soon as 
all the rest were out of sight, accepted one of the glasses 
with much eagerness. 

These people have a proud sort of carriage, with an air 
of composure and indifference about them, and an absence 
of curiosity which struck us as being very remarkable. 
Sometimes when we succeeded, by dint of signs and draw 
ings, in expressing the nature of a question, they treated 

* 

it with derision and insolence. On one occasion, being 
anxious to buy a clumsy sort of rake made of reeds, 
which appeared to me curious, I succeeded in explaining 
my wish to the owner, one of the lowest class of vil- 

COAST OF COREA. 1 

lagers ; he laughed at first good humouredly, but imme 
diately afterwards seized the rake which was in my hand, 
and gave it a rude push towards me with a disdainful fling 
of the arm, accompanying this gesticulation by words, 
which seemed to imply a desire to give any thing upon 
condition of our going away. One man expressed the 
general wish for our departure, by holding up a piece of 
paper like a sail, and then blowing upon it in the direction 
of the wind, at the same time pointing to the ships, thereby 
denoting that the wind was fair, and that we had only to 
set sail and leave the island. Several of the people were 
marked with the small-pox. The children kept out of our 
reach at first, but before we went away, their fears had, 
in some degree, subsided, for the boys, who, from their 
feminine appearance, were mistaken at first for girls, ac 
companied us to some distance from the village. 

Captain Maxwell named these islands Sir James Hall's 
group, in compliment to the President of the Royal So 
ciety of Edinburgh. They lie in longitude 124° 46' E. and 
latitude 37° 50' N. 

At eight o'clock in the evening we weighed and stood to 
the southward, but as the coast was quite unknown, we kept 
rather offshore during the night, and in the morning no land 
was in sight. On the 2d we stood to the eastward, but not 

 δ 

VOtAGE TO THE 

having daylight enough to get in with the coast, it became 
necessary to anchor for the night, though in deep water. 

3d of September.—Having reached nearly lat. 361 N. 
and long. 126 E. we sailed this morning amongst a range 
of islands extending as far as the eye could reach, both to 
the southward and northward, at the distance of six or 
seven leagues from the main land. By two o'clock we 
were close to the outer cluster of the islands, and the pas 
sages appearing clear between them, we sailed through 
and anchored inside. While passing one of these islands 
in the ships, at no great distance, it looked so curiously 
formed, that, on anchoring, we went in the boats to examine 
its structure more minutely *. While we were thus engaged, 

* We found the north-east end composed of a fine-grained granite; the 
middle of the island of a brittle micaceous schistus of a deep blue colour ; the 
strata are nearly horizontal, but dip a little to the S. W. This body of strata 
is cut across by a granite dyke, at some places forty feet wide, at others not 
above ten ; the strata in the vicinity of the dyke are broken and bent in a re 
markable manner ; this dislocation and contortion does not extend far from the 
walls of the dyke, but veins of granite branch out from it to a great distance, 
varying in width from three feet to the hundredth part of an inch : the dyke is 
visible from the top of the cliff to the water's edge, but does not re-appear on 
the corresponding cliff of an island opposite to it, though distant only thirty 
yards. This island is composed of the same schistus, and is cut in a vertical 
direction by a whin dyke, four feet wide, the planes of whose sides lie Ν. Ε. 
and S. W., being at right angles to those of the great granite dyke in the neigh 
bourhood, which run S. Έ. and N. W. The strata contiguous to the whin 
dyke are a good deal twisted and broken, but not in the same degree as at their 
contact with the granite dyke. 

COAST OF COREA. 9 

the natives had assembled in a crowd on the edge of the 
cliff above us; they did not seem pleased with our oc 
cupation of breaking their rocks, for, from the moment we 

The whin dyke is formed of five layers or sets of prisms laid across in the 
usual way. Beyond the small island cut by the whin dyke, at the distance of 
only forty or fifty feet, we came to an island rising abruptly out of the sea, and 
presenting a high rugged cliff of breccia, fronting that on which the granite dyke 
is so conspicuous : the junction of this rock with the schistus cut by the granite 
and the whin would have been interesting ; but although we must have been at 
times within a few yards of it, the actual contact was every where hid by the sea. 
The whole of the S. W. end of this island is formed of breccia, being an as 
semblage of angular and water-worn pieces of schistus, quartz, and some other 
rocks, the whole having the appearance of a great shingle beach. The fragments 
of the schistus in this rock are similar to that which forms the cliff first spoken of. 
The theory which presented itself to us on the spot was, that the great mass 
of strata which forms the centre of the island was formerly at the bottom of the 
ocean ; and that the western part, which is now a firm breccia, had been a beach 
shingle produced by the action of the waves on the strata : the granite which 
forms the eastern end of the island had been forced into its present situation 
from beneath the strata, with sufficient violence to dislocate and contort the beds 
nearest to it, and to inject the liquid granite into the rents formed by the heaving 
action of the strata as they were raised up. It is natural to suppose that the ragged 
edges of the strata forming the sides of these cracks would be subjected 'to a 
grinding action, from which the strata more remote might be exempted ; and in 
this way we may account for the extraordinary twisting, and separation of masses 
along the whole course of the granite dyke. In the dyke, as well as in the veins 
which branch from it, there are numerous islands of schistus. That this last 
was softened, seems to follow from the frequent instances which occur of its 
being bent back upon itself without producing cracks. The same heat, pro 
pagated by the melted granite in the neighbourhood, may also be supposed to 
have reduced the shingle beach to a state of semifusion by the aid of some flux 
contained in the sand scattered amongst it. We could not discover any circum 
stance by which the relative antiquity of the two dykes mentioned above, could 
be ascertained. 

 10 

VOYAGE TO THE 

COAST OF COREA. 

11 

landed, they never ceased to indicate by shouts, screams, 
and all kinds of gesticulations, that the sooner we quitted 
the island the better; the cliff being 200 feet high, and 
nearly perpendicular, it was fortunate for us that they con 
fined themselves to signs and clamour, and did not think of 
enforcing their wishes by a shower of stones. 

As soon as we had completed our investigation of this 
spot, we went round in the boats to a small bay where there 
was good landing. Here we were met by the natives, who 
addressed several long speeches to us in a very loud tone of 
voice ; to which we replied in English, that our wish was 
merely to look at the island, without interfering with any 
body ; at the same time we proceeded up a foot-path to 
the brow of a hill. This the natives did not seem at all to 
relish, and they made use of a sign which was sufficiently 
expressive of their anxiety, though we could not determine 
exactly to whom it referred. They drew their fans across 
their own throats, and sometimes across ours, as if to 
signify that our going on would lead to heads being cut 
off; but whether they or we were to be the sufferers was 
not apparent. It was suggested by one of our party that 
they dreaded being called to account by their own chiefs 
for permitting us to land. All these signs, however, did not 
prevent our advancing till we had reached the brow of the 

\l\c\ 

hill to which the path led ; from this place we had a view 
of a village at the distance of half a mile, of a much better 
appearance than that above described. Trees were in 
terspersed among the houses, which were pleasantly situated 
at the bottom of a little cove, with fishing-boats at anchor 
near it. We explained readily enough that our wish was to 
go to the village, but it was all in vain, for their anxiety 
increased every moment, and we desisted from any further 
attempts to advance. 

The dress of these people is a loose white robe, cloth 
shoes, and a few wear the broad hats before described ; by 
most the hair is tied in a high conical knot on the top of 
the head, but by others it is allowed to fly loose, so as to 
give them a wild appearance. Some confine the short hair 
by a small gauze band with a star on one side, forming, along 
with the top knot, rather a becoming head-dress. Their 
beards and whiskers which, apparently, had never been cut, 
and their fans and long tobacco-pipes, and ,their strange 
language and manners, gave a grotesque air to the whole 
group, which it is impossible to describe. They crowded 
about us, and, by repeated shouts, manifested their surprise 
at the form and texture of our clothes; but on a watch being 
shewn, they disregarded every thing else, and entreated to 
be allowed to examine it closely. It was evidently the first 

 12 VOYAGE TO THE 

they had seen, and some of them while watching the second 
hand, looked as if they thought it alive. From the watch 
they proceeded to examine the seals and keys ; with the 
former they shewed themselves acquainted by pressing them 
on their hands, so as to cause an impression. Their attention 
was drawn away from the watch by our firing a musket, 
which made the whole party fall back several paces. 

After amusing ourselves in this manner for some time, 
we walked back to the boats, to the great joy of the natives, 
who encouraged us by all means to hasten our departure. 
They took our hands and helped us over the slippery stones 
on the beach ; and, on perceiving one of the boats aground, 
several of them stript and jumped into the water to push 
her off. This gave us an opportunity of observing their re 
markable symmetry and firmness of limb ; yet, as their long 
hair was allowed to flow about their neck and shoulders, 
their appearance was truly savage. During this visit we saw 
no women ; but the children came round us without shewing 
any symptoms of fear. The people, upon the whole, are 
more free, and not so surly as our acquaintance on Sir James 
Hall's group. They have a singular custom of speaking with 
a loud tone, amounting almost to a shout. Captain Max 
well named this island after Dr. Hutton the geologist. 

4th of September.—During all last night it remained per- 

COAST OF COREA. 

13 

fectly calm. At nine o'clock in the morning we got under 
weigh with a fine sea breeze, and stood in for the land, 
leaving on either hand many well cultivated islands. The 
main land seems to be populous, from the number of large 
villages which we passed, and the cultivation which extends 
a considerable way up the mountains. Our object this 
morning was to discover some safe anchoring place in the 
main land, but we were obliged to coast along for a consi 
derable distance before any opening appeared. About three 
o'clock we sailed round a point of land and discovered a bay, 
which, at first sight, promised shelter, but the water proved 
too shallow even for the· Lyra, and we anchored far out in 
five fathoms. The natives who had assembled in crowds on 
the point shouted to us as we passed, in seeming anger at 
our approaching so near. This bay is about four miles in 
diameter, and is skirted by large villages built amongst 
trees, and surrounded by cultivated districts, forming al 
together a scene of considerable beauty. 

As soon as the Alceste had anchored, Captain Maxwell, 
Mr. Clifford, and I, went towards the nearest village in 
the bay. On approaching the shore we observed a great - 
bustle among the inhabitants on the shore, as well as in the 
boats at anchor off the village. The people on the beach 
hastily jumped into canoes, whilst those in the large boats 
weighed the anchors, and pulled out with such expedition, as 

 14 

VOYAGE TO THE 

COAST OF COREA. 

15 

to meet us in a body before we were near the landing-place. 
Every boat was crowded with people, and ornamented with 
numerous flags and streamers ; but one of them being dis 
tinguished by a large blue umbrella, we steered towards 
it, on the supposition that this was an emblem of rank ; in 
which opinion we were soon confirmed by the sound of 
music, which played only on board this boat. On coming 
closer, we saw a fine patriarchal figure seated under the um 
brella ; his full white beard covered his breast, and reached 
below his middle ; his robe or mantle, which was of blue 
silk, and of an immense size, flowed about him in a mag 
nificent style. His sword was suspended from his waist by 
a small belt, but the insignia of his office appeared to be 
a slender black rod tipped with silver, about a foot and a 
half long, with a small leather thong at one end, and a 
piece of black crape tied to the other : this he held in his 
hand. His hat exceeded in breadth of brim any thing we 
had yet met with, being, as we supposed, nearly three feet 
across. 

As this was evidently the chief of the party, we pulled 
alongside and got into his boat, where he received us with 
much politeness ; but as he looked dissatisfied at this pro 
ceeding, we returned to our own boat, and there carried 
on the conference. While we were endeavouring to make 
ourselves understood, the other boats gradually separated, 

and began to form a circle round us. Apprehending 
treachery, we prepared our arms, and pushed off to a little 
distance. The old gentleman, perceiving this, looked about 
very innocently to discover the cause of our alarm ; and at 
length being made aware by our signs of what was the 
matter, he commanded all the boats to go to the other side. 
We now remained a considerable time without being able to 
make ourselves understood ; for the Chinese whom we had 
with us was quite ignorant of their language. We endea 
voured, by pointing to the shore, to signify our desire to 
land, while the old Chief, by similar signs, expressed his 
wish to go to the ships. We accordingly rowed to the Lyra, 
which lay nearer to the shore than the Alceste. When the 
Chiefs boat was within ten yards of the brig, they let go 
their anchor, and threw a rope on board her, by which they 
drew the boat alongside in a very seaman-like style. The 
old man did not find it an easy matter to get up the ship's 
side, encumbered as he was with his splendid robes; he was 
no sooner on board, however, than we were crowded with 
the natives, who boarded us on all sides. Some climbed up 
the rigging, so as to overlook the quarter-deck ; others got 
on the poop, and a line was formed along the hammock 
netting from one end of the brig to the other. As the even 
ing was fine, it was thought best to entertain the venerable 

\ 

 16 

VOYAGE TO THE 

Chief upon deck, rather than give him the trouble of going 
down to the cabin, which, indeed, we had reason to fear 
would prove too small for the party. Chairs were accord 
ingly placed upon the deck ; but the Chief made signs that 
he could not sit on a chair, nor would he consent for a 
time to use his mat, which was brought on board by one of 
his attendants. He seemed embarrassed and displeased, 
which we could not at the moment account for, though it 
has since occurred to us that he objected to the publicity 
of the conference. At length, however, he sat down on 
his mat, and began talking with great gravity and com 
posure, without appearing in the smallest degree sensible 
that we did not understand a single word that he said. We 
of course could not think of interrupting him, and allowed 
him to talk on at his leisure ; but when his discourse was 
concluded, he paused for our reply, which we made with 
equal gravity in English ; upon this he betrayed great im 
patience at his harangue having been lost upon us, and 
supposing that we could, at all events, read, he called to 
his secretary, and began to dictate a letter. The secretary 
sat down before him with all due formality, and having 
rubbed his cake of ink upon a stone, drawn forth his pen, 
and arranged a long roll of paper upon his knee, began 
the writing, which was at length completed, partly from the 

CORKAH CHIEF and Ms SECHETAJRY. 

 COAST OF COREA. 

17 

directions of the Chief, and partly from his own ideas, as 
well as the occasional suggestions of the bystanders. The 
written part was then torn off from the scroll and handed 
to the Chief, who delivered it to me with the utmost con_ 
fidence of its being understood : but his mortification and 
disappointment were extreme on perceiving that he had 
overrated our acquirements *. 

* Note on the peculiar character of the written language in that quarter 

of the globe. 

In China, Japan, Corea, and the islands in the adjacent seas, the spoken 
languages are different from one another; the written language, on the con 
trary, is the same in all. Thus a native of China is unintelligible to a Corean 
or Japanese, while he is speaking, but they mutually understand one another 
when their thoughts are expressed in writing. The cause of this may be thus 
explained. We in Europe form an idea in the mind, and this we express by 
certain sounds, which differ in different countries ; these sounds are committed 
to writing by means of the letters of the alphabet, which are only symbols of 
sounds, and, consequently, a writing in Europe is unintelligible to every one 
who is ignorant of the spoken language in which it happens to be written. The 
Chinese and the other natives in these seas have, on the contrary, no alphabet ; 
no symbols of sounds ; their ideas are committed to writing at once without the 
intervention of sound, and their characters may therefore be called symbols of 
ideas. Now, as the same characters are adopted in all these countries to express 
the same ideas, it is clear that their writings will be perfectly intelligible to each 
other, although their spoken languages may be quite incomprehensible. 

The case of the Roman numerals in Europe furnishes a ready illustration of 
this symbolical language. There is nothing in the symbols 1, 2, 3, &c. by which 
their pronunciation can be ascertained when presented to the eye, yet they com 
municate meaning independent of sound, and are respectively intelligible to the 
inhabitants of the different countries of Europe ; while, at the same time, the 
sounds by which a native of one country distinguishes the written symbols 1, 2., 
3; &c. are unintelligible to all the rest. 

D 

 18 

VOYAGE TO THE 

COAST OF COREA. 

A debate now appeared to take place between the Chief 
and his followers, as to the mode of communicating with us ; 
meanwhile, as we ourselves were equally at a loss, we 
became anxious to relieve the old man's embarrassment, 
by shewing him all the attention in our power, and com 
pletely succeeded in putting him into a good humour, by 
giving him some cherry brandy, and distributing rum to 
his people. 

While these attempts at explanation were going on, the 
crowd of natives increased, and their curiosity became so 
great, that they pressed round us in a way nowise agreea 
ble. Some of them roved about the ship, and appeared 
highly entertained with every thing they saw. The Chief 
himself, however, did not appear at ease, but continued 
giving directions to his officers and people about him with 
an air of impatience. He more than once ordered them 
all into their boats, but they always returned after a few 
minutes. One man persevered in climbing over the ham- 
The knowledge of writing is supposed to be very generally diffused over the 
countries using what is called the Chinese character, and, as probably none but 
the lowest vulgar are ignorant of it, the surprise of these people on discovering 
our inability to read their papers is very natural. The case, we may imagine, 
had never occurred to them before, and it was highly interesting to watch the 
effect which so novel an incident produced. At first they appeared to doubt the 
fact of our ignorance, and shewed some symptoms of impatience; but this 
opinion did not last long, and they remained completely puzzled, looking at 
each other with an odd expression of surprise. 

mocks, close to the Chief, to see what was going on. The 
noise made to keep him back attracted the Chiefs attention, 
who immediately gave orders to one of the attendants for 
his being taken away ; it will be seen by and by what was 
his fate. 

The persons forming the suite of the Chief were dressed 
nearly in the same manner as himself, excepting that their 
robes were white, and did not contain such a profusion of 
cloth. They wore the large hats and wide trowsers tied 
above the ancle, with cotton shoes turned up. a little at the 
toe. The immediate attendants, who seemed also to be 
soldiers, were differently clothed : over a loose pink frock 
with wide sleeves, they have another which fits closer, and is 
without sleeves, the corners being tucked up, like the skirts 
of some military uniforms. Their hat is a broad flat cone 
made of thick grass, the under part being embossed with 
different coloured silks, and from a gilt ornament on the 
peak there hangs a tassel made of peacock's feathers, and 
another of hair dyed red : some are armed with bows and 
arrows, others with only a straight sword, having no guard 
for the hand. A coarse frock without sleeves, and trowsers, 
or rather drawers, covering the thigh, are worn by the 
lower orders. 

It was nearly dark when the Chief gave directions for 

 20 VOYAGE TO THE 

preparing the boats, at the same time calling to two of his 
attendants to assist him to get on his legs. Each took an 
arm, and in this way^ succeeded in raising him up, which 
was no sooner observed by the people, than they^ jumped 
into their boats with the utmost alacrity, and the Chief, 
after many bows and salaras, walked into his boat. This 
did not give him so much trouble as he had experienced on 
coming on board, for a platform of gratings and planks had 
been prepared for his accommodation during his visit, an 
attention with which he seemed much pleased. So far all 
seemed well ; but there was still something amiss, for the old 
man, seated in state under his umbrella, remained alongside 
with his attendants ranged on the deck about him, he and his 
people preserving the most perfect silence, and making no 
signs to explain his wishes. We were greauy puzzled to 
discover what the old gentleman wanted, till at length it 
was suggested, that having paid us a visit, he expected a 
similar compliment in return. This idea was no sooner 
started, than we proceeded to pay^ our respects to him in 
his boat. He made signs for us to sit down, honouring us 
at the same with a corner of his own mat. When we were 
seated, he looked about as if in distress at having nothing 
to entertain us with, upon which a bottle of wine was sent 
for and given to him. He ordered an attendant to pour it 

COAST OF COREA. 21 

into several bowls, and putting the bottle away, made signs 
for us to drink, but would not taste it himself till all of us 
had been served. He was nowise discomposed at being 
obliged to entertain his company at their own expense; on the 
contrary, he carried off the whole affair with so much cheer 
fulness and ease, as to make us suspect sometimes that he 
saw and enjoyed the oddity^ of the scene and circumstances, 
as fully as we did ourselves. 

After sitting about ten minutes, we left the Chief in 
great good humour, and returned on board, thinking, of 
course, that he would go straight to the shore ; but in this 
we were much mistaken, for we had no sooner left him, 
than he pushed off to the distance of ten or twelve yards, 
and calling the other boats round him, gave orders for in 
flicting the discipline of the bamboo upon the unfortunate 
culprit, who had been ordered into confinement during the 
conference. This exhibition, which it was evidently in 
tended we should witness, had a very ludicrous effect, for it 
followed so much in train with the rest of the ceremony, 
and was carried on with so much gravity and order, that it 
looked like an essential part of the etiquette. During the in 
fliction of this punishment, a profound silence was observed 
by all the party, except by five or six persons immediately 
about the delinquent, whose cries they accompanied by a 

 i (il 

22 VOYAGE TO THE 

sort of song or yell at each blow of the bamboo. This 
speedy execution of justice was, no doubt, intended to 
impress us with high notions of Corean discipline. 

As it was now quite dark, we did not expect the Chief 
to pay any more visits this evening ; but we underrated his 
politeness, for the moment the above scene was concluded, 
he steered for the Alceste. Captain Maxwell, who during all 
the time had been on board the Lyra, hurried into his boat to 
be prepared to give him a proper reception in his ship, and 
had just time to change his jacket for a coat and epaulettes, 
before the Chief arrived. After climbing up the ship's side 
with some difficulty, and being received in due form on the 
quarter-deck, which was lighted up, he was handed into the 
foremost cabin, where he was met by Captain Maxwell, and 
conducted to a seat in the after cabin. As he declined 
sitting on a chair, he was obliged to wait for his mat, and, 
in the meantime, looked round him in amaze at the mag 
nificence of the apartments. The change of dress made him 
behave towards Captain Maxwell as to a perfect stranger ; 
but the moment he recognised him, he appeared much 
amused with his mistake, and his manners became less re 
served. He now turned about to see what was become of 
his mat, and was astonished to find himself alone with us in 
the cabin. It was then discovered that the sentry at the 

COAST OF COREA. 23 

door, in repressing the crowd of his followers, had found it 
impossible to distinguish his more immediate attendants, 
and had therefore allowed nobody to pass. 

The door being opened, the mat-bearer and four of the 
principal people were called in by the Chief; and when we 
were all fairly seated on the deck, the secretary was directed 
to prepare a writing, which was dictated and delivered much 
in the same manner as before. Whether the presentation of 
a written paper was considered by the Chief as a necessary 
piece of etiquette, or whether he really had more hopes of 
being understood on this occasion than before, was quite 
uncertain ; but the mode adopted by Captain Maxwell to 
undeceive him was conclusive. He immediately called for 
paper, and wrote upon it in English, " I do not understand 
one word that you say," and presented this paper in return, 
with all the forms and ceremonies that had been adopted 
towards himself. The Chief, on receiving it, examined the 
characters with great attention, and then made signs that it 
was wholly unintelligible, alternately looking at the paper 
and at Captain Maxwell with an inquiring air, and was 
only made sensible of the awkward dilemma in which we 
were placed, by observing Captain Maxwell repeat all his 
looks and gestures as equally applicable to the Corean 
writing which he held in his hand*. 

* This paper, presented by the Corean Chief, has been translated by Mr 
Momson at Canton, and is as follows: «Persons, of what land-of what 

 24 

VOYAGE TO THE 

The Chief had now recourse to signs, which he used ever 
afterwards. He was in great spirits, and seemed entertained 
with the efforts which were made to please him. He asked to 
look at a mirror which had caught his attention ; when it was 
put into his hands, he seemed very well satisfied with the 
figure which it presented, and continued for some time pull 
ing his beard from side to side with an air of perfect com 
placency. One of the attendants thought there could be no 
harm in looking at the mirror, likewise, but the Chief was of 
a different opinion, and no sooner observed what he was 
doing, than he very angrily made him put down the glass and 
leave the cabin. The secretary too fell under his displeasure, 
and was reprimanded with much acrimony for overlooking our 
paper when we were writing. Scarcely five minutes elapsed, 
in short, during his stay, without his finding some cause of 
complaint against his people ; but we could not determine 
whether this arose from mere captiousness, or was done to 
give us a higher notion of his consequence, because, in the 
intervals, he was all cheerfulness and good humour. He 
was offered tea and cherry brandy, which he took along 
with us, and appeared at his ease in every respect. We 
thought that he made signs, implying a wish for us to visit 
him on shore; to this we cheerfully assented, and an ar 
rangement for landing in the morning was made accord- 

" nation (are you) ? On account of what business do you come hither ? In the 
" ship are there any literary men who thoroughly understand, and can explain 
" what is written?" 

COAST OF COREA. 

25 

ingly by means of similar signs, with which the Chief ap 
peared' much pleased, and rose to go away. 

He had not got much beyond the cabin-door, however, 
before the serenity of his temper was once more overturned. 
On passing the gun-room sky-light, he heard the voices of 
some of his people whom the officers had taken below, and 
who were enjoying themselves very merrily amongst their 
new acquaintance. The old Chief looked down, and observing 
them drinking and making a noise, he called to them in a 
loud passionate voice, which made them leave their glasses, 
and run up the ladder in great terror. From thence the 
alarm spread along the lower deck, to the midshipmen's 
birth, where another party was carousing. The grog and 
wine with which they had been entertained was too potent 
for this party, as they did not seem to care much for the old 
Chief, who, posting himself at the hatchway, ascertained, 
by personal examination, who the offenders were. On this 
occasion, his little rod of office was of much use ; he pushed 
the people about with it to make them speak, and used it 
to turn them round, in order to discover their faces. One 
man watching his opportunity when the Chief was punching 
away at somebody who had just come up, slipped past and 
ran off; but the quick eye of the old man was not so easily 
deceived, and he set off in chase of him round the quarter 

 26 VOYAGE TO THE 

deck. The man had an apron full of biscuit, which had 
been given to him by the midshipmen; this impeded his 
running, so that the Chief, notwithstanding his robes, at last 
came up with him ; but while he was stirring him up with 
his rod, the fellow slipped his cargo of bread into a coil of 
rope, and then went along with the Chief quietly enough. 
The old man came back afterwards, and found the biscuit, 
which he pointed out to us, to shew that it had not been 
taken away. 

He continued for some time at the hatchway, expecting 
more people; but finding none come up, he went below 
himself, to the main deck, and rummaged under the guns 
and round the main-mast, to discover whether any one was 
concealed ; but finding no person there, he came again upon 
deck, and shortly after went into his boat. 

On returning to the Lyra, we found a number of boats 
anchored round her, which looked as if they meant to keep 
strict watch over us. We went in our boat to one of them, 
where we found the crew asleep. They seemed to have 
had orders not to follow the Chief to the frigate, and were 
here waiting his return. On our pointing to the shore, and 
making signs that the old man with the long beard and 
large hat had landed, they began immediately to get their 
anchor up, and called to the other boats to do the same. 

COAST OF COREA. 27 

In a few minutes they were all at work, and every person 
in the boats joined in repeating the two words " ho va, ho ya," 
the effect of which, from a great many voices, was not 
υ η pleasing. 

The cable in these boats is wound round a large reel or 
barrel; to the ends of which two wheels with handles are fitted, 
which enables a considerable number to apply their strength 
at the same moment. The anchor is made of a dark coloured, 
heavy wood, with a long shank and flukes, and a short stock 
crossing the former, near the crown of the anchor, and not 
at the end of the shank, as with us in Europe. The mat 
sails are divided into horizontal divisions by slender pieces 
of bamboo. When not under sail, the boats are moved by 
oars having a circular piece of wood tied to the end, and are 
steered by a large scull over the stern. The bow is square 
above, but rises from the water in a slope, making a small 
angle with the water, like the end of a coal barge, but 
overhanging more. The planks are fastened together by 
means of square tree-nails, which pass in a slanting direction 
through the plank, and not straight, as with us. 

5th of September.—A considerable bustle was observed 
on shore at daybreak this morning ; and shortly afterwards, 
we saw the old Chief and his suite embark, and pull towards 
us, accompanied by a numerous fleet of smaller boats, all 

 VOYAGE TO THE 

COAST OF COREA. 

ornamented with showy flags, and crowded with people in 
gay and bright coloured garments, forming, upon the whole, 
a splendid and imposing scene. As the procession moved 
slowly along, the band in the Chief's boat struck up a lively, 
martial sort of air, on instruments similar to those we had 
heard last night ; the tone of which is not unlike the drawling 
sound of the bagpipe, the bass or drone being produced by 
a long horn, and the squeaking sounds by four trumpets, 
two of which have stops in the middle, by which the notes 
are distinctly marked. 

The Chiefs visit was so unexpectedly early, that we had 
not put things in order for his reception, before he was 
alongside : he came on board, however, and seemed happy 
at being allowed to walk about the decks, and examine 
every thing at his leisure. When the cabin was ready, and 
the Chief seemed to have satisfied himself with looking 
round the upper deck, he was asked to walk down ; which 
he complied with as soon as he understood what was meant. 
But he found it no easy matter to get down the narrow 
hatchway, in which there was barely room for his hat ; but 
this he would by no means take off. As he entered the 
cabin, his robes and hat completely filled the door-way ; 
and when seated at the table, (for he now made no objection 
to a chair) he occupied no inconsiderable portion of the 

whole apartment. He sat here for some time, and examined 
every thing in the cabin with great attention, pointing with 
the little stick whenever he saw any thing which he wanted 
to look at more closely. In this way, the books, globes, 
glasses, &c. were put into his hands ; and it was not a little 
amusing to see the old gentleman wheeling the globes 
round, and hunting over the books for pictures, like a child. 
A person of rank who accompanied the Chief this morning, 
was asked to the cabin along with him ; and was no sooner 
seated, than we observed that he had a very sickly look; 
which circumstance was the cause of a curious mistake. 
It had been supposed that the Chief, during last night's 
conference, made allusions to some friend of his who was 
unwell; and accordingly, in our arrangements for the morning, 
it was proposed to take the doctors of both ships on shore, 
to visit him. As the Chief had himself come on board, our 
plans for landing were interrupted, and we ascribed this 
early visit to his anxiety on account of his friend's health. 

It was therefore taken for granted, that this sickly looking 
companion of the Chief, who, some how or other, got the title 
of the " Courtier," amongst us, was the patient alluded to 
last night; and no sooner were the first compliments over 
in the cabin, than the doctor was sent for to prescribe. On 
his being introduced, the Courtier was made to hold out his 

I 

 30 

VOYAGE TO THE 

tongue, have his pulse felt, and submit to various inter 
rogatories, the object of which the unfortunate man could 
not divine, particularly as there was nothing at all the 
matter with him. He submitted with so much patience to 
all these forms, and the Chief looked on with such grave 
propriety during all the examination, that they evidently 
considered the whole scene as a part of our ceremonial 

etiquette. When this gentleman was released from the 

Φ 

doctor's hands, he began to examine the books with the air 
of a person who understands what he is about. He appeared 
desirous of passing for a literary character ; and observing 
us hand the books about in a careless manner, ventured to 
ask for one, by drawing it towards himself with a begging 
look. As he happened to select a volume of the Encyclo 
paedia Britannica, I was under the necessity of refusing ; but 
offered in its stead a less valuable, though more showy 
book, which he accepted with much gratitude. No return, 
of course, had been looked for, and I was for a moment at a 
loss to understand what my friend meant, by slipping his 
fan into my hand, under the table. He did this in so 
mysterious a way, when the Chief was looking in another 
direction, that I saw it was his wish to conceal what he had 
done, and the fan was sent privately away. But unfor 
tunately, my precaution was fruitless, for a few minutes 

COAST OF COREA. 

31 

afterwards, on finding the crowded cabin very hot, I called 
for a fan, and the servant, unconscious of the mischief he 
was doing, brought the Courtier's present ; which no sooner 
met the old man's eye, than he rose half off his chair, and 
gave his unhappy companion such a look of furious anger, 
as made him tremble from top to toe : but he was soon 
pacified when he saw that we took an interest in the 
question, and the Courtier was allowed to keep his book. 

After sitting half an hour, and drinking a glass of 
Constantia, the old man proposed to go upon deck. I 
accordingly led the way, and had gone some steps up the 
ladder, in advance, before I perceived that he had stopped 
at the door of the gun-room, where the officers mess, and 
was looking in, with his usual curiosity. I begged him to 
go in, which he accordingly did, and entertained himself 
for some time, with looking over the different cabins of the 
officers. From having observed the pleasure which he took 
in the sight of any thing new, I was induced to propose his 
going round the lower deck, and he looked quite pleased 
when I pointed along the passage. The state hat, which 
had been resolutely kept on during all this time, notwith 
standing its perpetual inconvenience to himself and every 
one around him, was here destined to come off; for after 
making two or three attempts, he found it impossible to get 

 32 VOYAGE TO THE 

along and wear the hat too ; and being of a very inquisitive 
disposition, he chose the degrading alternative of being 
uncovered, and his researches proceeded without inter 
ruption. Nothing escaped the old man's observation; 
whatever was shut or tied up, he requested to have opened ; 
and in this way he rummaged the midshipmen's chests, and 
the sailors' bags, all along the lower deck. He looked into 
the holds, took the lid off the boilers, and turned every 
thing topsy-turvy. Seeing a cutlass tied to the deck, 
overhead, he took it down, and on drawing it from the 
scabbard, its lustre, and the keenness of its edge, surprised 
and delighted him so much, that I asked him to accept it. 
At first he seemed willing enough, but after holding a con 
sultation with the Courtier for five minutes, he reluctantly 
put it back again. As he went along, he took samples of 
every thing that he could easily put into his sleeve, which 
served him instead of a sack ; so that when he came upon 
deck, he was pretty well loaded, and looked about with the 
satisfaction of a school-boy, on having visited a show for the 
first time in his life. 

Whilst we were below, one of the natives had been busily 
employed in taking the dimensions of the ship with a string, 
and another person was engaged under him, taking an 
account of the guns, shot, and rigging, all which details he 

COAST OF COREA. 

33 

wrote down ; but not being able to ascertain, himself, the 
exact number of people on board, he had recourse to 
me for the information ; this I communicated by opening 
eight times the fingers of both hands. The only part of 
the ship to which he had not free access was the cabin 
under the poop, and from which he felt much annoyed at 
being excluded : but when told that a gentleman was shaving 
there, he shewed himself quite satisfied with the explana 
tion, and waited patiently until the door was opened to him. 
The old gentleman and his followers appearing anxious 
to see a shot fired, an eighteen pound carronade was loaded 
before them, and discharged with the muzzle so much 
depressed, that the shot struck the water close to us, and 
then rose and fell eight or ten times, to the great entertain 
ment and surprise of the whole party. In the mean time, 
Captain Maxwell had come on board, and breakfast being 
ready, we prevailed upon the Chief to sit down with us. 
He ate heartily of our hashes, and of every thing else that 
was put before him, using a knife, fork, and spoon, which 
he now saw, probably, for the first time in his life, not only 
without awkwardness, but to such good purpose, that he 
declined exchanging them for Chinese chop-sticks, which 
were provided for him. In fact, he was so determined to 
adopt our customs in every respect, that when the tea was 

F 

 34 

VOYAGE TO THE 

COAST OF COREA. 

35 

offered to him in the Chinese way, he looked to the right and 
left, and seeing ours differently prepared, held up his cup 
to the servant, for milk arid sugar, which being given to him, 
the old gentleman remained perfectly satisfied; 

The politeness and ease with which he accommodated 
himself to the habits of people so different from himself, 
were truly admirable ; and when it is considered, that 
hitherto, in all probability, he was ignorant even of our 
existence, his propriety of manners should seem to point, 
not only to high rank in society, but to imply also a degree 
of civilization in that society, not confirmed by other cir 
cumstances. Be this as it may, the incident is curious, as 
shewing, that however different the state of society may be 
in different countries, the forms of politeness are much alike 
in all. This polished character was very well sustained by the 
old Chief; as he was pleased with our attempts to oblige him, 
and whatever we seemed to care about, he immediately took 
an interest in. He was very inquisitive, and was always 
highly gratified when he discovered the use of any thing 
which had puzzled him at first. But there was no idle sur 
prise, no extravagant bursts of admiration, and he certainly 
would be considered a man of good breeding, and keen ob 
servation, in any part of the world. Towards his own people, 
indeed, he was harsh and impatient at all times; but this 

may have arisen from his anxiety that no offence should be 
given to us by the other natives, whom he might know were 
less delicate and considerate than himself, and therefore 
required constant control. 

When breakfast was over, and the old man once more 
upon deck, we endeavoured to signify to him that we meant 
to land, according to our engagement yesterday evening ; 
but this he either did not, or would not comprehend; for 
whenever we pointed towards the shore, he directed our 
attention to the frigate. At length he got into his boat, 
pushed off, and was making for the Alceste, when Captain 
Maxwell followed in his boat, and drawing up alongside of 
him, tried to prevail upon him to accompany us to the 
village : the Chief shook his head by way of disapprobation, 
and turning towards his attendants, entered into a discussion 
with them, which terminated by the Courtier and himself 
stepping into Captain Maxwell's boat. 

We ascribed this measure to a desire on the Chiefs part 
to show publicly that he had not himself invited us on 
shore, arid had only acceded to our request to land.·! We 
had not proceeded far before the Chief repented of his 
ready compliance, and tried to persuade us to return ; but 
finding the ordinary signs of no avail, he held his head 
down and drew his hand across his throat, as if his head 

 36 VOYAGE TO THE 

was to be cut off. It was now our turn not to comprehend 
signs, and thinking it would be idle to lose so favourable an 
opportunity, spared no pains to reconcile the old man to 
our landing. In this, however, we did not succeed, for, as 
we approached the shore, his anxiety increased, and he 
frequently drew his hand across his neck, as if to shew that 
he would lose his head if we persisted. We again tried to 
re-assure him, by explaining that we had no intention of 
going near the village, but merely desired to walk about for 
a short time, and then to go to the frigate to dine. He 
was of course included in this invitation; but bis only 
answer consisted in pointing to us and making signs of 
eating, and then drawing his hand across his throat; 
by which he was understood to mean, that it might be very 
well for us to talk of eating, but, for his part, he was taken 
up with the danger of losing his head. We could not but 
laugh at this, as we had no notion of any such apprehension 
being well grounded ; and, in a short time, landed at the 
distance of half a mile from the village. 

The old man was lifted out of the boat by several of his 
people, and we were amazed to find, when they set him 
down, that he was in tears, and looking altogether very 
unhappy. In a few minutes a crowd, consisting, of more 
than a hundred people, assembled round us, and we began 

COAST OF COREA. 

37 

to think we should pay dearly for our curiosity. But the 
poor old man had no thoughts of vengeance, and was no 
better pleased with the crowd than we were ; for turning to 
his soldiers, he desired them to disperse the mob, which 
they did in a moment by pelting them with great stones. 
1 The Chief now began crying violently, and turning towards 
the village walked away, leaning his head on the shoulder of 
one of his people. As he went along, he not only sobbed 
and wept, but every now and then bellowed aloud. We 
had been nowise prepared for such a scene, and were ex 
tremely sorry for having pushed matters to this extremity. 
It had never occurred to us that the old Chiefs head was 
really in danger; and even now we could not satisfy our 
selves whether he was sincere, or merely acting in order to 
prevail on us to retire. The perfect tranquillity, nay even 
cheerfulness of the Courtier, who staid with us all this time, 
puzzled us extremely : nor could we account for the indif 
ference of the other attendants, who looked on with as 
much composure as if such scenes were every day occur 
rences. But at all events, it was necessary before pro 
ceeding any further, that the old man should be pacified ; 
and in order to effect this, we sat down on the beach, upon 
which he turned about and came crying back again. He 
seated himself by us, and waited very patiently whilst we 
remonstrated on the unreasonableness of his conduct, and 

 36 

VOYAGE TO THE 

contrasted the reception he had met with from us, with his 
present unaccountable behaviour. This was expressed by 
a dumb show acting of all that had taken place since we 
came to anchor in the bay ; and these signs we thought 
might be intelligible to the Chief, because they were so to 
all of us, although no words were used. The signs used by 
different nations, however, are often dissimilar when the 
same thing is to be expressed : and it happened frequently 
with us that all attempts at explanation failed, on both sides, 
though the signs used appeared to be understood by all the 
people of the same nation with the person making the signs. 
The old man made a long speech in reply ; in the course 
which the beheading sign was frequently repeated. It is 
curious that he invariably held his hands towards his throat 
after he had gone through this motion, and appeared to 
wash his hands in his blood : probably he did this in imita 
tion of some ceremony used at executions. 

Upon one occasion the Chief endeavoured to explain 
something to us which had a reference to a period of two 
days ; this he did by pointing to the sun, making a motion 
twice from east to west, and, at the end of each time, 
closing his eyes as if asleep. This sign was variously in 
terpreted : some believed it to mean that in two days his 
head would be taken off: others imagined that in two days 
a communication might be made to his government, and 

COAST OF COREA. 

39 

that orders for our reception would be transmitted. What 
ever might have been meant by this particular sign, it 
seems very probable that some general instructions were in 
force along the whole of this coast by which the treatment 
of strangers is regulated. The promptitude with which we 
were met at this place, where, perhaps, no ship ever was 
before, and the pertinacity with which our landing was op 
posed, seem to imply an extraordinary degree of vigilance 
and jealousy on the part of the government. 

We expressed a desire to eat and drink, in the hopes of 
working on the old man's hospitality, and, perhaps, in 
ducing him to entertain us in his house ; but he made no 
motion towards the village, and merely sent off a servant 
for some water and a few small cockles. When this sorry 
fare was laid on the beach, the old gentleman made signs 
for us to begin ; but we did not choose to be pleased either 
with the entertainment itself, or with the place and manner 
in which it had been served. We explained to him that 
the proper place to eat was in a house, and not on a wet 
dirty beach ; he made no offer, however, of any other ; but 
leaning his head pensively on his hands, seemed entirely 
resigned to his fate. 

The case was now utterlyx hopeless ; and after an in 
effectual attempt to cheer him up, we went on board, as 

 40 

VOYAGE TO THE 

the last, and indeed only favour we could grant him. Thus 
we quitted this inhospitable shore, after a stay of not quite 
an hour, in which time we had never been twenty yards 
from our own boats. We saw the village, however, to some 
advantage ; it is neatly built, and very pleasantly situated 
under fine trees, in a valley cultivated like a garden, in 
small square patches. 

It was now determined to prosecute the voyage to the 
southward, and the Lyra was accordingly ordered to proceed 
as usual to sound the passages a-head of the frigate, but had 
not gone far before the Alceste, still at anchor, was ob 
served to be surrounded with boats. In about an hour she 
weighed and stood to sea. Captain Maxwell had received 
another visit from the old Chief, whose appearance was de 
scribed as being quite altered ; his sprightliness and curiosity 
all gone, and his easy unceremonious manner exchanged for 
cold and stately civility: he looked embarrassed and un 
happy, as it appeared, from an apprehension of having 
offended Captain Maxwell. When this was discovered, no 
pains were spared to convince him that, in this respect, there 
was not the slightest cause for uneasiness. He would not 
accept any presents, but appeared much relieved by the 
unexpected kindness with which he was received, and 
before he went away, was restored, in some degree, to his 

COAST OF COREA. 

41 

wonted spirits. When looking over the books in the cabin, 
he was a good deal taken with the appearance of a Bible, 
but when offered to him he declined it, though with such 
evident reluctance, that it was again shewn to him just as 
he was pushing off in his boat, and he now received it with 
every appearance of gratitude, and took his leave in a 
manner quite friendly. 

We quitted this bay without much regret. The old 
Chief, indeed, with his flowing beard, and pompous array, 
and engaging manners, had made a strong impression upon 
us all ; but his pitiable and childish distress, whatever might 
have been the cause, took away from the respect with which 
we were otherwise disposed to regard him: yet this cir 
cumstance, though it makes the picture less finished, serves 
to give it additional interest ; whilst every thing ridiculous 
in the old man's character is lost in the painful uncertainty 
which hangs over his fate. 

From this bay we steered amongst the islands, during all 
the 6th and 7th, to the S. W. before the natives were met 
with again ; we saw them indeed, but never got near enough 
to converse with them. They were frequently observed seated 
in groups watching us on the islands which we passed. We 
saw several fishing-boats, with a crew of about a dozen men, 
crowded on a sort of poop. At a little distance these boats 

G 

 42 VOYAGE TO THE 

appeared to be formed of two vessels lashed together. This 
appearance we believe to be caused by their having an out 
rigger on one side, on which their oars, sails, and masts are 
piled, in order probably to keep the boat clear when they 
are at anchor fishing. Their mast is lowered down and 
hoisted up by means of a strong tackle from the mast-head 
to the stern, as in the barges on the Thames. 

We threaded our way for upwards of a hundred miles 
amongst islands which lie in immense clusters in every 
direction. At first we thought of counting them, and even 
attempted to note their places on the charts which we were 
making of this coast, but their great number completely 
baffled these endeavours. They vary in size, from a few hun 
dred yards in length to five or six miles, and are of all shapes. 
From the mast-head other groups were perceived lying 
one behind the other to the east and south as far as the eye 
could reach. Frequently above a hundred islands were in 
sight from deck at one moment. The sea being quite smooth, 
the weather fine, and many of the islands wooded and 
cultivated in the valleys, the scene was at all times lively, 
and was rendered still more interesting by our rapid passage 
along the coast, by which the appearances about us were 
perpetually changing. Of this coast we had no charts 
possessing the slightest pretensions to accuracy, none of 

COAST OF COREA. 

43 

the places at which we touched being laid down within 
sixty miles of their proper places. Only a few islands 
are noticed in any map ; whereas the coast, for near two 
hundred miles, is completely studded with them, to the 
distance of fifteen or twenty leagues from the main land. 
These inaccuracies in the charts naturally gave a very high 
degree of interest to this part of the voyage ; yet the naviga 
tion being at all times uncertain, and often dangerous, con 
siderable anxiety necessarily mingled itself with the satisfac 
tion produced by so new and splendid a scene. We always 
anchored during the night, or when the tides, which were 
very rapid, prevented our proceeding in the deliberate 
manner absolutely required by the nature of the circum 
stances. An instance of the necessity of these precautions 
occurred on the 7th of September, at four o'clock in the 
afternoon, when, it being quite calm, we were drifting along 
with the tide, which suddenly shifted and carried us rapidly 
towards a reef of rocks, which was invisible till the strong 
rippling of the water shewed us our danger : we let go the 
anchor immediately, but the jerk was so great, as to break 
the Lyra's cable. A second anchor, however, brought her 
up at a sufficient distance from the reef. 

As soon as the tide slacked, a boat was dispatched to 
examine the anchorage on the other side of an island near us. 

 44 

VOYAGE TO THE 

The officer landed about sun-set, and from the top of the 
island could discover a village on the other side, on the 
shores of a fine large bay. He afterwards sounded the 
anchorage, and found it of a convenient depth. On his 
way back he landed near the village, but though it was 
bright moonlight he saw none of the inhabitants. 

8th of September.—About noon we weighed and sailed 
round the north end of the island, which had been visited 

* 

last night. The Alceste anchored nearly in the middle 
between the two islands which form the anchorage ; but as 
the Lyra draws less water, she was placed as close off the 
village as was safe, being then about a quarter of a mile 
from the beach. At this distance, by means of a telescope 
fixed on a table on the poop, we were enabled to see what 
was going on in the village, while the people were un 
conscious of being observed. Mr. Clifford, who was too 
unwell to land with Captain Maxwell and myself, placed 
himself at the glass, and made many observations which 
must otherwise have escaped notice. 

At first the only inhabitants visible were seated on the 
top of the hill watching us, the village itself being quite 
deserted ; but shortly after our anchoring, the inhabitants 
began to assemble from different parts of the island. Of these 
several were women, some of whom had children on their 

COAST OF COREA. 

45 

backs, and others carried them in their arms. They looked 
stout, were fairer in complexion than the men, and were 
dressed in a long white robe, loose and open in front, with 
a petticoat of the same colour reaching a little below the 
knees ; their hair was tied in a large knot behind ; a small 
piece of white cloth was thrown loosely over the head to 
protect them from the rays of the sun. Some women were 
engaged in husking rice in a mortar with a wooden beater ; 
these had no dress above the waist. The men and boys 
were seen carrying loads on a wooden frame hooked to the 
shoulders. 

In a square flat place near the village a number of 
women and children were employed winnowing corn by 
pouring it from a height, so that the husks blew away. 
Fishing-nets were spread to dry on most of the houses. We 
landed about five o'clock, and found in the village only 
two men, who obstinately remained at one place without 
speaking, and looking anxious that we should go away; 
they refused the buttons which we offered them, and resisted 
our persuasions to accompany us to the upper part of the 
village, which we were anxious they should do, to shew that 
we had no intention of hurting any thing, but merely to 
look about us. We went on alone, and on reaching a de 
serted house thought it a good opportunity to examine it. 

 46 

VOYAGE TO THE 

Before the door, on a neat clean level space, enclosed by a 
hedge covered with a sweet-scented white flower, we found 
several heaps of corn and straw, and several of the wooden 
mortars in which the rice is pounded, also a number of 
vessels, some filled with water and others with rice. Cooking 
utensils were lying about, and a number of fishing lines 
coiled neatly in baskets, and split fish spread out to dry on 
the top of little corn ricks on one side of the court. The 
inside was dark and uncomfortable ; the mud floor was full 
of hollow places ; the walls were black with soot, and every 
thing looked dirty. On the left of the entrance two large 
metal boilers, twenty inches deep, were sunk in the brick 
work, the upper part being about a foot above the floor. 
The fire-place was between the boilers, and on the hot 
embers lay three split fish. On the wall opposite to the 
fire were shelves, having a number of cups, basons, and 
cooking utensils, principally of coarse stone ware, and some 
few of a sort of bell-metal. The number of inhabitants in 
one house must be considerable, if we can form an estimate 
from the quantity of their dishes and vessels. There were 
three neat small pieces of furniture on one of the shelves, 
the use of which we could not discover ; they were made 
of wood, elegantly carved and varnished, with a round 
top about a foot in diameter, and four legs a foot and a half 

COAST OF COREA. 47 

long. The roof was well constructed, the rafters being mor 
tised into the ends of the horizontal beams, and tied to the 
middle by a perpendicular beam or King-Post. Over the 
rafters is laid a net-work of rods, to which the thatch is tied. 
There was no chimney to this house, and only one window 
made of slender bars of wood, forming square spaces three 
inches by two, covered by a thin semi-transparent paper 
defended by the roof, which extends so far beyond the wall 
as to shelter it not only from the rain but from the sun. 
Most of the houses had a sort of raised verandah under 
the eaves, about a foot or more above the ground, extending 
from the door on either hand to the end of the house ; these 
places were neatly levelled, and must afford a cool seat. 
The walls of the houses are from six to eight feet high, and 
from fourteen to twenty feet long ; the top of the roof being 
about fourteen. The walls are of stone and mud, the door 
moves on the bar, which forms one of its sides ; this bar is 
prolonged, and works in holes in the beam above, and a stone 
below. There was a back door to the house which we 
examined. On opening this we found a bare bank of earth 
as high as the house, at the distance of three feet from 
the walls, arid a hedge rising still higher on the top; this 
effectually excluded all light. 

This minute survey of the house being completed, we 

 Ι ι 

48 

VOYAGE TO THE 

COAST OF COREA. 

49 

returned to our friends, who seemed in some measure re 
assured. We tried to prevail upon them to accompany us 
in our walk, in hopes that the rest of the cottagers might 

ι 

be induced to return when they saw how peaceably we 
were disposed. Captain Maxwell used every sign he could 
think of to no purpose, and tired at length of these attempts, 
took hold of the oldest man's hand, drew it through his 
arm, and walked off with him. I followed his example with 
the other; and this familiarity amused the natives, who 
now accompanied us in perfect good humour. The ease and 
apparent indifference with which they walked along with us 
was curious, and had so little of awkwardness in it, that one 
might have supposed it to be the fashion of Corea to walk arm 
in arm. Having reached the house which we had before 
examined, we sat down in the verandah, and made signs that 
we wished to smoke a pipe with them. In the meantime a 
boat was observed- to come to the landing-place ; the crew 
quitted her and came towards us at a rapid pace. The 
quick manner of these people, so different from the ordinary 
behaviour of the Coreans we had seen, made us apprehend 
that some violence was meditated ; but in this we were mis 
taken, for they sat down with us, gave us their pipes to 
smoke, and laughed immoderately at some of our words : 
we took the hint from them, and laughed heartily whenever 

w 

we observed that any thing good had been said amongst 
them; this was well received, and proved afterwards a good 
mode of introduction. 

Their curiosity was strongly excited by our clothing, 
which they examined minutely ; they wished to see some 
parts of our dress taken off, and in order to gratify them they 
were allowed to have our coats, shoes, stockings, hats, &c. 
They were mord**struck with the stockings than with any 
thing else, frequently shouting " Hota ! Hota !" This word, 
which is pronounced with a strong aspiration, was noted down 
in our list as the Corean word for stockings ; but it was found 
afterwards to be an expression of approbation, applied in 
discriminately to whatever they consider remarkably good. 
After sitting some time with these people, and smoking several 
pipes with them, we gave up all hopes of seeing the villagers 
return while we were there, and as the night was falling 
we proposed taking a short walk with our friends, and then 
going on board. But as soon as they saw us go up the hill 

ι 

instead of returning to the boat, they became very uneasy, 
and wanted us to turn back. As we had reason, however, 
to conjecture that the women and children were on the other 
side of the hill, we went on in the expectation of getting a 
sight of them before dark. This the Coreans prevented by 
following us with shouts wherever we went, so as to give 

H 

 50 

VOYAGE TO THE 

warning of our approach. The women and children pro 
bably retreated before us to a ravine on the north side of 
the island, for when we approached it the Coreans became 
more anxious than ever for our return ; and one man seeing 
us still advance, took hold of my arm and gave it a sharp 
pinch. I turned round and exclaimed, *' Patience, Sir!" he 
drew back on observing my displeasure, and a moment after 
called out himself, " Patience, Sir !" The others hearing this 
caught the words too, and nothing was heard for some time 
amongst them but " Patience, Sir," pronounced in every 
instance with perfect propriety. They seemed surprised 
themselves on discovering powers of imitation hitherto in 
all probability unexercised. This incident brought us better 
acquainted, and we remained on the top of the hill teaching 
them English words till it was dark. They were certainly 
entertained with our instructions, but nevertheless shewed 
much more satisfaction in attending us down hill again to 
our boats.: Before going on board we invited them to come 
to the ship next day^ which one of the party was supposed 
to comprehend: he first made preparations for going to 
bed, then closed his eyes, hung his head on his hand, and 

f 

snored very properly; after a time he opened his eyes, 
started and looked about him, then laid his hands on 
Captain Maxwell's shoulders with an air of welcome. This 

COAST OF COREA. 

51 

was interpreted by some into a wish for our departure till 
the morning, and by others that he himself would visit us 
at daylight. As he never came on board, and received us 
on landing next day with any thing but welcome, probably 
both guesses were wrong : of one thing there was no doubt, 
his anxiety to get rid of us ; and his signs may have meant 
that it was time for all honest people to be in bed. 

9th of September.—At sunrise we landed at the same 
village, and found it deserted as before. We left it and 
made for the highest peak on the island, accompanied by 
a few of the Coreans, who did not interfere with us till 
about halfway up, when on our entering a grove of fir trees, 
with the appearance of which we had been struck, one of 
the Coreans objected ; we went on, however, and upon 
reaching the stump of an old tree the Corean fell on his 
knees, bowed his head to the ground, and as he raised it 
again held his hands closed and pressed together towards 
the stump. This had very much the air of a stratagem to 

\ 

dissuade us from going further in that direction, where the 
women probably were concealed. Admitting this to have 
been the motive, it is curious that he should have supposed 
such a shew of religious form calculated to restrain us. It 
is further remarkable as being the only circumstance which 
we have seen on this coast implying a knowledge of religion 

 52 

VOYAGE TO THE 

or religious ceremony. There are here no temples, idols, nor 
tombs, whereas in China, villages much smaller than these 
of Corea have them in every corner. The other Coreans 
took no notice of the stump, and the man who was pro 
strating himself before it finding that his behaviour produced 
nothing but a number of questions from us concerning the 
nature of the tree, got on his legs and walked sulkily away. In 
the course of our walk we saw six bullocks of a small breed 
and very fat, but which the Coreans were not to be tempted 
to sell by any thing which we had to give them. Dogs were the 
only quadrupeds besides that we saw. There were pigeons, 
hawks, and eagles, but few small birds. Crows were as 
numerous here as in every other part of the world. We 
returned on board to breakfast, and afterwards set out 
on an excursion to the top of a high island lying some 
leagues to the south-east of us. On our way we landed, 
and observed the sun's meridian altitude with an artificial 
horizon, by which we ascertained the latitude to be 34° 22' 
39" north, the longitude by the mean of two chronometers 
is 126° 2' 45" east. 

We passed, for the distance of five miles, amongst islands, 
all, except the very smallest, inhabited. The villages are 
built in the valleys, where the houses are nearly hid by 
trees and hedges. The sides of the hills are cultivated with 

COAST OF COREA. 53 

thillet and a species of bean ; and in the numerous small 
gardens near the villages, we saw a great variety of plants. 

As the peaked island which we had undertaken to climb 
was steep, and covered with a long coarse grass, it cost 
us a tiresome scramble to gain the top, which is about six 
hundred feet above the level of the sea. The main land of 
Corea is just discernible in the north-east and east, from 
this elevation ; but it commands a splendid view of the 
islands, lying in thick clusters, as far as the eye can reach, 
from north-west quite round by east to south. We 
endeavoured to count them. One person, by reckoning 
only such ae were obviously separate islands, made their 
number one hundred and twenty. Two other gentlemen, 
by estimating the numbers in each connected cluster, made 
severally, one hundred and thirty-six, and one hundred and 
seventy ; a difference, which at once shews the difficulty of 
speaking with precision on this subject. But when it is 
considered, that from one spot, which though considerably 
elevated, was not centrical, one hundred and twenty islands 
could be counted, and that our course for upwards of one 
hundred miles had been amongst islands no less crowded 
than these, some idea may be formed of this great Archi 
pelago. 

After enjoying this scene for some time, we went down 

 54 VOYAGE TO THE 

on the other side of the peak, which is much less steep. 
We found the boat's crew preparing dinner for us, under 
some trees, close to a well of cool water. The village to 
which the well belonged not being many yards off, we 
proceeded to explore it, and found it deserted by all except 
an old woman and a man. The woman, seated on a pile of 
stones, in the middle of the village, took no notice of us as 
we passed ; and indeed, she was herself so very homely, as to 
occupy but little of our attention. The man was seated at the 
door of a cottage, making a straw sandal : on our entering 
his inclosure, he looked up for an instant, and immediately 
resumed his work, with as much composure as if we had 
been a party of the villagers. A button was offered to 
him, which he accepted without scruple : he agreed, with 
equal readiness,, to exchange his unfinished sandal for 
another button, which having carelessly put away, in a bag 
lying near him, he took some straw and re-commenced 
his business, without seeming to notice that we were rum 
maging his house. He is the only Corean we have met 
with, who has not shewn some slight symptoms of curiosity : 
indeed, he seemed totally indifferent about our staying or 
going, or about what we were doing in his house ; and we 
left him without knowing whether to ascribe his apathy to 
fear, or to absolute stupidity. 

COAST OF COREA. 55 

On returning from the village, we saw a party of the 
natives assembled on a rising ground near us ; they were 
invited, by signs, to join us at dinner, but they kept their 
places unmoved. While we were at dinner, the sailors, 
who had been rambling about, joined the natives, and in a 
few minutes became very good friends with them ; the 
natives giving up their pipes, and the sailors in return sup 
plying them with tobacco. We have frequently remarked 
during this voyage, that the sailors make acquaintance with 
the natives much sooner than the officers. This seems the 
natural effect of the difference in our manners. On meeting 
with natives, we feel so anxious to conciliate, and to avoid 
giving offence, that Our behaviour, thus guarded and cir 
cumspect, has an air of restraint about it, which may 
produce distrust and apprehension on their part; whilst, on 
the other hand, Jack, who is not only unreflecting an,d 
inoffensive himself, but never suspects that others can pos 
sibly misconstrue his perfect. good-will and unaffected 
frankness, has an easy, disengaged manner, which at once 
invites confidence and familiarity. 

In about an hour after we had sat down, one of the 
natives hastily rose, and without appearing to deliberate, 
but as if actuated by a sudden impulse, strode rapidly 
down to us, and in the most unceremonious way possible, 

 £6 VOYAGE TO THE 

presented his lighted pipe for us to smoke. We received 
him as kindly as we could, and prevailed upon him to take 
a glass of wine ; which he had no sooner drank off, than he 
roared out, " Hota! Hota!" 

This exclamation brought the rest down, who seating 
themselves by us, drank freely, and became very cheerful 
and communicative, telling us the Corean names of every 
thing we pointed to, and asking, in return, the English 
names for our clothes.* But though the wine made these 
people far more sociable than any we had yet seen, they 
never forgot the principal object of their thoughts, and 
suggested, every now and then, by pointing to our boats, 
the propriety of our going away. After sunset, they 
became very impatient and uneasy at our stay ; but when 
at length we yielded to their entreaties, the whole party 
accompanied us to the water's side, and took leave with 
the most lively marks of satisfaction at our departure. 

10th of September.—This morning, about ten o'clock, 
we got under weigh, and stood to the southward. By sun 
set we were clear of all the islands, and could just distinguish 
the island of Quelpaert in the south-east quarter. 

The shortness of our stay on this coast, and the difficulty 
we experienced in communicating with the inhabitants, 

* See note at the end of the Loo-choo vocabulary. 

COAST OF COREA. 57 

will account for the scanty and disjointed nature of the 
information obtained. A future voyager would do well to 
be accompanied by a person who can write the Chinese 
character, and should have full leisure to overcome, by 
patient management, the distrust of strangers evinced by 
this unsociable people. 

A chart of our track along this coast is subjoined to 
this work, in the hope that it may prove useful to a future 
voyager. As it was constructed under circumstances of 
great haste, it is necessarily incomplete ; yet it will probably 
be found more accurate than any maps or charts hitherto 
published. 

 58 

VOYAGE TO THE 

CHAPTER II. 

Enter the Japan Sea—Sulphur Island—Volcano—See the Great Loo-Choo 
Island—Lyra nearly wrecked—First Interview with the Natives—Anchor at 
Napakiang—Natives crowd on Board—Their interesting Appearance and 
Manners—Several Chiefs visit the Alceste—Land to make Observations— 
Astonishment of the Natives—Six Chiefs visit the Ships—Alceste and Lyra 
proceed farther in Shore—A Chief of high Rank waits upon Captain 
Maxwell—Return his Visit—Feast—Projected Survey of the Anchorage— 
Visit Reef Island—The Lyra sent to look for another Harbour—Arrange 
ments for landing the Alceste's Stores—Description of the Temple and 
Garden—First Acquaintance with Madera—Study of the Language. 

AFTER leaving Corea, we stood to the southward and east 
ward, with a strong breeze from the north, and a mountainous 
swell from the north-east. Shortly after daybreak on the 
13th of September, we saw Sulphur Island, in the south 
west quarter, and by eleven in the forenoon were close up 
to it. We intended to land, but were prevented by the 
high wind, which caused so great a surf all round the 
island, as to render this impracticable. The sulphuric 
volcano from which the island takes its name is on the 
north-west side ; it emits white smoke, and the smell of 
sulphur is very strong on the lee side of the crater. The cliffs 

GREAT LOO-CHOO ISLAND. 59 

near the volcano are of a pale yellow colour, interspersed with 
brown streaks : the ground at this place is very rugged, as 
the strata lie in all directions, and are much broken ; on the 
top is a thin coat of brown grass. The south end of the 
island is of considerable height, of a deep blood red colour, 
with here and there a spot of bright green : the strata, 
which are here nearly horizontal, are cut by a whin dyke 
running from the top to the bottom of the cliff, projecting 
from its face like a Avail. As the weather still looked 
threatening, Ave gave up the intention of examining this 
spot, and proceeded to the southward till four o'clock, at 
Avhich time land was seen in the south-west quarter ; but as 
there was not sufficient daylight to close with it, we hauled 
off to the westward for the night. Shortly after sunset the 
sky became overcast, the wind veered about from one 
point to another, the air became suddenly quite chill, the 
sea rose high, and every thing, in short, seemed to indicate 
an approaching tyfoong or hurricane. All our preparations 
Avère made to encounter a violent tempest ; but we were 
much pleased at finding it turn out nothing more than an 
ordinary gale of wind. 

14th of September.—The weather was still stormy, but 
being anxious to close with the land, we bore up, and 
steered in the supposed direction of the Great Lieou Kieou, 

 60 

VOYAGE TO THE 

GREAT LOO-CHOO ISLAND. 

61 

or Loo-choo Island. At eight o'clock we was the Sugar 
Loaf of Captain Broughton, which is a small green island, 
having a high remarkable cone in the middle. We left this 
to the eastward, and continued steering to the south south 
west, hoping to get to leeward of the great island before 
night, where we might remain in smooth water till the 
weather became fine. While going along at a quick rate, 
we suddenly saw breakers close to us ; we instantly hauled 
to the wind, and made all the sail we could carry. Our 
situation was now very critical, for the swell caused by the 
recent gale checked our way considerably, and a lee 
current drifted us gradually towards the reef. From the 
mast head we could look down upon the reef, which was of 
a circular form, with a low island on its southern side; the 
surf broke all round, but in the inside the water was quite 
smooth, and being only a few feet deep, the coral, which 
was of a bright green, appeared distinctly through it. At 
the distance of one-third of a mile from where we were, no 
bottom was to be found with our lead lines, so that anchoring 
was out of the question. After being in this unpleasant 
predicament for some time, we succeeded in weathering 
the western end of the reef, which we had no sooner done, 
than we saw a passage four or five miles wide, by which we 
proceeded to leeward of the reef island, where we found the 

water perfectly smooth. The Alceste rounded the reef 
without difficulty, being half a league farther off than the 
Lyra, which, as usual, had been stationed ahead to look 
out, but had not perceived the danger sooner, owing to the 
extreme haziness of the weather. 

15th of September.—In the morning, it was arranged 
that the Lyra should proceed in shore in search of a harbour, 
while the frigate remained in deep water. At ten o'clock I 
thought we had discovered a place of security, and having 
anchored the Lyra, sent three boats to examine it. A 
sort of harbour was found, formed by coral reefs ; but the 
passages being all intricate for large ships, and the water 
shallow inside, it is by no means safe. We fell in with 
several people in canoes ; one man, who seemed to know 
what we were searching for, directed us to a point of land to 
the northward, and waved for us to go round it. While the 
boats were away, sevei'al natives came off to the Lyra. No 
people that we have yet met with have been so friendly; 
for the moment they came alongside, one handed a jar of 
water up to us, and another a basket of boiled sweet 
potatoes, without- asking or seeming to wish for any 
recompense. Their manners were gentle and respectful; 
they uncovered their heads when in our presence, bowed 
whenever they spoke to us ; and when we gave them some 

 62 TOYAGE TO THE 

rum, they did not drink it till they had bowed to every 
person round. Another canoe went near the Alceste, and 
a rope being thrown to them, they tied a fish to it, and then 
paddled away. All this seemed to promise well, and was 
particularly grateful after the cold repulsive manners of the 
Coreans. 

The day was spent in trying to beat round the point to 
windward, but the tide was too strong against us, and when 
it became dark, we found ourselves awkwardly situated. 
To the east and west of us there were islands at the distance 
of a few miles. To leeward was a circular coral reef, just 
appearing above the surface at low water ; and to windward 
were seen the reefs upon which we were so nearly wrecked 
on Saturday. As the exact position of these numerous 
dangers was unknown to us, we were determined to anchor 
for the night, though in eighty fathoms water. 

l6th of September.—At daylight we weighed, and beat 
to windward all the morning ; but owing to the tide being 
contrary, it was two o'clock before we passed the point 
mentioned above ; which we had no sooner done, than we 
came in sight of an extensive town, having a harbour filled 
with vessels at anchor. On steering towards the town, we 
had to sound our way cautiously amongst coral reefs, which 
were tolerably well defined by the surf breaking upon 

GREAT LOO-CHOO ISLAND. 63 

them*. The Alceste followed as soon as we had ascertained 
that the passage was clear, and both ships anchored at the 
distance of half a mile from the town. 

In a short time we were surrounded by canoes, full of 
the natives, who, with their children, flocked on board. 
They wear a loose dress, tied with a belt round their waist ; 
their hair is brought tight up from all sides, and formed into 
a knot on the top of the head, with two metal pins stuck in 
it. In the course of an hour, a native came on board who 
appeared to be somewhat higher in rank than the rest ; and 
we now discovered, to our great satisfaction, that this man 
understood our Chinese servant, who had been of no use to 
us at Corea. As it was found that there were other chiefs 
on shore superior in rank to this man, Captain Maxwell 
declined receiving his visit ; as well with the view of inducing 
the principal people to come on board, as of maintaining 
an appearance of dignity, a point of great importance in all 
transactions with the Chinese and their dependents, who 
invariably repay condescension with presumption. As 
we had heard of these people being tributary to China, 
it was natural to conclude that there might be some 

* This circumstance is by no means common, and therefore cannot be 
depended on. In fine weather these reefs give no warning whatever, and a ship 
on approaching them ought invariably to have a boat ahead. 

 64 

VOYAGE TO THE 

GREAT LOO-CHOO ISLAND. 

65 

l· 

similarity in manners. At all events, it was evidently much 
easier at any future time to be free and cordial with them, 
after having assumed a distance and reserve in the first 
instance, than it would be to repress insolence, if at first 
encouraged by too hasty familiarity. 

Before this man went on shore, he requested to know 
the reason of our coming into this port ; the interpreter was 
instructed to acquaint him that the ships had experienced 
very bad weather, and had been a long time at sea; that 
the large ship had sprung a leak, and required repairs 
which could only be done in a secure harbour: further 
explanations, it was observed, would be given to the 
superior chiefs when they came on board. We had been 
prepared for these inquiries, not only from the reception 
we had met with at Corea, but' from the well-known 
character of the nations in this quarter of the globe ; and 
it was so far fortunate, that the Alceste was actually in want 
of repairs ; because to have assigned curiosity, and a desire 
of gaining information as our object, to people wholly 
unconscious of such feelings, would naturally have led them 
to ascribe our actions to some more interested, and con 
sequently more dangerous motive. 

The canoes which we have seen to-day are mostly made 

of one piece of wood ; they have two sails, and are moved 

•V 

with considerable velocity, by two or more paddles, assisted 
by an oar over the stern, which acts both as a scull and a 
rudder. There is a neat low seat, made of rattans, for each 
person in the canoe. As the day closed, the fishing canoes 
came in great numbers from sea, and all came on board the 
ships on their way ; some of the fishermen pulled up our 
lines and baited the hooks. The whole shore abreast of the 
ships was covered with people, but the crowd was greatest 
on two pier-heads, forming the entrance to the harbour ; and 
the variety of colour in their dresses made this a very lively 
exhibition. In the evening, Captain Maxwell and I rowed 
round to examine the anchorage, which we found tolerably 
clear of rocks. An officer was at the same time sent to 
examine the inner harbour, but he did not go far within 
the entrance, which was much too shallow for the frigate. 

On returning to the Lyra, I found that Mr. Clifford 
had been entertaining several respectable looking natives 
who had paid him a visit. As they readily comprehended 
his desire to know their words for various things, he has 
succeeded in collecting a considerable number, among which 
,we are surprised to find their name for tobacco the same as 
ours ; all the others are quite new to us. 

« 

17th of September.—I carried the interpreter to the 
Alceste, after breakfast, where I found two chiefs, who had 

κ 

 66 

VOYAGE TO THE 

been on board some time, and had been taken care of by 
the officers, as Captain Maxwell was not prepared to receive 
them. A message was then sent to intimate that the Ta-yin 
(a Chinese title, used also by these people to persons 
of rank) was desirous of seeing the chiefs, and they were 
introduced into the after-cabin, where they were received 
in form. They objected to sitting down, making at the 
same time many low obeisances, which they did by stooping 
the body, and raising the hands, closed one over the other, 
to their face. Their scruples about being seated were at 
length overcome, and the first chief took his place on 
Captain Maxwell's left hand, the next on my left, and a third, 
who was evidently of a lower rank, sat beyond the second. 
The chiefs sat respectfully silent, and Captain Maxwell 
finding that he was expected to speak first, communicated 
to. them that the ships under his command belonged to 
the King of England ; that they had gone to China with an 
Embassador, carrying presents to the Emperor, at Pékin ; 
that on their way back to Canton, they had experienced 
very, bad weather, and had been obliged to put in here to. 
refit, and to procure supplies. 

In reply, they expressed their willingness to assist us as 
much as lay in their power, but said that the harbour was too 
shallow for so large a ship, and recommended our proceeding 

GREAT LOO-CHOO ISLAND. 67 

to another harbour called Kindling, which they described 
as being secure and commodious, and only a few hours sail 
from this anchorage : they offered to furnish pilots and a 
boat to conduct us. Captain Maxwell, however, was 
unwilling to quit this anchorage unless certain of finding a 
better; he therefore proposed to send the Lyra to examine 
and report upon the harbour alluded to. The chiefs paused 
upon this, and said they could not take upon them to send 
pilots to the Brig without consulting the Great Man on 
shore. We were very curious to know who this great 
personage might be, but they evaded all our inquiries. 
Captain Maxwell asked where the king resided, and intimated 
his intention of waiting upon him ; to this they strongly 
objected, declaring moreover, that it was impossible, as his 
majesty lived a thousand miles off. They did not seem' 
aware of their inconsistency, when they undertook, imme 
diately afterwards, to get an answer from court about pilots 
for the Lyra, in a few hours. 

We had been led to hope, from the frankness and kind 
ness of these people, that no restraint would be imposed 
on us ; and we were the more disappointed at observing, 
that whenever we spoke of landing, or asked any questions 
about the king, the chiefs became uneasy, and replied in a 
mysterious manner. We consoled ourselves, however, with 

 68 

VOYAGE TO THE 

the supposition, that upon further acquaintance their appre 
hension would wear off. 

Business being over, the chiefs were asked to walk round 
the cabin, an invitation which they accepted with manifest 
satisfaction. During the conference they had preserved a 
gravity suited to an important ceremony, and, though 
surrounded by new and curious objects, had never expressed 
the least curiosity. They were now no longer formal, and 
looked over the various articles with attention, taking parti 
cular notice of the globes, books, and mirrors. Their manners 
are remarkably gentle and unassuming. They are observant, 
and not without curiosity, but they require encouragement to 
induce them to come forward, being restrained, it would seem, 
by a genteel self-denial, from gratifying curiosity, lest it might 
be thought obtrusive. Their dress is singularly graceful ; 
it consists of a loose flowing robe, with very wide sleeves, 
tied round the middle by a broad rich belt or girdle of 
wrought silk, a yellow cylindrical cap, and a neat straw 
sandal, over a short cotton boot or stocking. Two of the 
chiefs wore light yellow robes, the other dark blue streaked 
with white, all of cotton. The cap is flat at "top, and 
appears to be formed by winding a broad band diagonally 
round a frame, in such a manner, that at each turn a small 
portion of the last fold shall be visible above in front, 

GREAT LOO-CHOO ISLAND. 69 

and below at the hinder part. The sandal is kept on by a 
stiff straw band passing over the instep, and joining the 
sandal near the heel ; this band is tied to the forepart by a 
slight string, drawn between the great toe and the next, 
the stocking having a division like the finger of a glove for 
the great toe. They all carry fans, which they stick in their 
girdles when not in use, and each person has a short tobacco 
pipe in a small bag, hanging, along with the pouch, at the 
girdle. When they had satisfied themselves with looking 
over the cabin, they went away, with a promise of returning 
in the evening as soon as the answer from the Great Man 
should arrive. 

During all this morning, the whole space between the 
ships and the shore has been covered with canoes, each 
containing about ten persons. The scene was very lively, 
for few of the parties which came to visit the ships 
remained long on board, so that the canoes were con 
tinually passing backwards and forwards, and the number 
which came in this way must have been immense. They 
all seemed highly gratified at being allowed to go where- 
ever they liked over the ships, nor was this liberty ever 
abused. The manners even of the lowest classes are 
genteel and becoming; their curiosity is great, but it 
never makes them rudely inquisitive: their language is 

 70 

VOYAGE TO THE 

GREAT LOO-CHOO ISLAND. 

71 

musical, and in most cases easy of pronunciation. We 
heard a boat song to-day, the air of which was sweet 
and plaintive; we tried in vain to catch the words, and 
unfortunately, none of us had skill enough to note down the 
air. We observed several people in canoes, making drawings 
of the s"hips, but they hid their work when they were 
observed. In consequence of what had been said last 
night of our wanting repairs, a party of shipwrights and 
caulkers was sent on board the Alceste this morning, but 
their tools were of a Lilliputian order, and quite unsuited to 
the rough work required. 

The variety of colour and pattern in the dresses of the 
people to-day, is remarkable. Many wear printed cottons, 
others have cotton dresses with the pattern drawn on it by 
hand, instead of being stamped ; but blue, in all its shades, 
is the prevalent colour, though there were many dresses 
resembling in every respect Highland tartans. The children, 
in general, wear more shewy dresses than the men, and of 
the dress of the women we can say nothing, as none have 
yet been seen. Every person has one of the girdles before 
described, which is always of a different colour from the 
dress, and is, in general, richly ornamented with flowers in 
embossed silk, and sometimes with gold and silver threads. 
This dress is naturally so graceful, that even the lowest 

boatmen have a picturesque appearance. Their hair, which 
is of a glossy black, is shaved off the crown, but the 
bare place is concealed by their mode of dressing the 
hair in a close knot over it. Their beards and mustachios 
are allowed to grow, and are kept neat and smooth. 
They are rather low in stature, but are well formed, and 
have an easy graceful carriage, which suits well with 
their flowing dress. Their colour is not good, some being 
very dark and others nearly white, but in most instances 
they are of a deep copper. This is fully compensated for 
by the sweetness and intelligence of their countenance. 
Their eyes, which are black, have a placid expression, and 
their teeth are regular and beautifully white. In deport 
ment they are modest, polite, timid, and respectful, and in 
short, appear to be a most interesting and amiable people. 
Two of our friends who had visited us in the morning, 
and whose names we have discovered to be Ookooma and 
Jeema, came 011 board again about half past five, and staid 
an hour ; they had not received any answer, they said, from 
the Great Man, and therefore could not send pilots to the 
" hoonee gua/' or little ship. They were accompanied by a 
chief whom we took to be a Chinese from his looks, and his 
appearing to understand the interpreter better than the 
others. His formal and suspicious manner did not promise 

! ! 

 72 

VOYAGE TO THE 

so well as that of the others. They came to say that a 
present of stock and vegetables had been sent to the ships. 
It was intimated to them that we intended to land « the next 
day, and upon their objecting to this, we said that our wish 
was to wait upon the Great Man; to which they replied, 
that no person answering to this description resided here. 
We then said, that it was right we should return their visit. 
This argument they combated by saying that they were men 
of unequal rank to us, and therefore nowise entitled to such 
an honour ; and thatwe,at the same time, would be degrading 
ourselves by such undue condescension. This having failed, 
Captain Maxwell told them of his illness ; upon which, our 
new acquaintance, who seemed more earnestly bent against 
our landing than the others, offered to send a physician on 
board to see him. Captain Maxwell replied, that his own 
doctor had recommended a ride on shore ; upon which they 
laughed, and turned the discourse to something else. 

In this way every proposal to land, or even allusion to the 
shore, was industriously put aside ; and as it was our wish 
to gain their good will, the matter was dropped for the 
present. Before they went away, Captain Maxwell, pointing 
to their pipes, begged them to smoke if they wished it ; they 
were grateful for this considerate attention, but would not 
on any account begin till we shewed them the example, by 

GREAT LOO-CHOO ISLAND» 73 
» ^ 

smoking with pipes which they prepared for us. They 
appeared more at their ease after this incident, and after 
sitting for some time, took leave for the night on the most 
friendly terms. 

18th of September.—Captain Maxwell sent to me to say 
that he meant to land on a point at some distance from the 
town, in order to observe the sun's meridian altitude with an 
artificial horizon. Just as I was setting out to accompany 
him, I was taken by surprise by two well-dressed natives^, 
who were halfway down the cabin ladder before I knew of 
their approach. One came to superintend the measurement 
of the Lyra, and the other, who seemed of inferior rank, to 
explain why some poultry, only then sent, had not come on 
the preceding night, along with the other presents. I forgot 
to mention, that a bullock, two hogs, two goats, a dozen and 
a half of fowls, some candles, wood, and water, were sent to 
each of the ships. I asked them to sit down, and they were 
so well satisfied with the Constantia which I gave them, that 
they remained for some time ; owing to which delay, I did 
not reach the shore till the time for observing the sun had 
gone by. I found Captain Maxwell with Ookooma and se 
veral of the chiefs, and an immense crowd of the natives, all 
of whom had left the town on seeing the boat put off, and 
had hastened to this spot, either out of curiosity or respect, 

 74 

VOYAGE TO THE 

or more probably to watch our proceedings. At our re 
quest, Ookooma, who appears to possess considerable au 
thority, made the whole crowd, chiefs and all, sit down on 
the grass in a circle round us. Their astonishment at our 
operations was strongly expressed in their countenances, 
and, indeed, our apparatus and behaviour must have looked, 
to perfect strangers, somewhat magical. 

In the first place the quicksilver, which to them would 
appear like melted metal, was poured into a trough, in a 
fine stream from a wooden bottle ; while it was running out 
the people repeated in an under tone " yi, yi, yi, yi !" but 
were silent when the glass roof was placed over the trough. 
The circular instrument and sextant, fixed on stands, next 
attracted their notice, and they looked on in profound 
silence while we were taking the sun's altitude. As we 
were too late for the desired observation, we amused the 
natives by letting them look at the two reflected images of 
the sun through the telescope of the instruments. Ookooma 
was the first who looked, and being quite unprepared for 
what he saw, started back in astonishment, as if he had un 
consciously beheld something supernatural and forbidden. 
The other chiefs, in their turn, placed themselves at the 
instrument, as well as several old men who stepped forward 
from the crowd. Some testified their surprise by a sudden 

GREAT LOO-CHOO ISLAND. 

75 

exclamation ; others were perfectly calm, so that we could 
not guess what they thought ; and some held up their hands, 
and looked as if the whole matter was totally beyond the 
reach of their comprehension. When this was over, and there 
was no longer any necessity for the crowd being seated, they 
closed round and watched us while we were putting the in 
struments up. Some of the boys held out their hands for 
quicksilver, with which they ran off, quite happy. 

During this time we were about fifty yards from the foot 
of a cliff, on the brow of which was posted a group of women 
witli baskets on their heads ; we were unfortunately not near 
enough to discern their features, nor to make out their dress 
distinctly; it appeared, however, to be like that of the men, 
though somewhat shorter, and without any girdle round 
the waist. 

The rock here rises in perpendicular rugged cliffs of 
coral, with a number of rude square excavations on its face, 
which, at first sight, appear to have been worn by the 
elements, but on examination shew evident traces of art 
Most of these caves are closed up by a wall of loose stones, 
but in one, of which the mouth was open, several human 
bones were found lying amongst the sand. On removing 
a stone from a closed cave, a vase was observed in the 
inside, of an elegant shape ; the people signified to us that 

 76 

VOYAGE TO THE 

these were the remains of the dead, but we did not make 
out distinctly whether the bones or the ashes only were 
thus preserved. They made no objections to our examining 
these caves, though they certainly were not pleased with it. 
No notice was taken of what Captain Maxwell and I did ; 
but Mr. Clifford, who had remained below collecting words 
from some intelligent natives, was strongly recommended 
by Ookooma to go back to the boat ; he walked up, how 
ever, without opposition, to the cave which we had been 
examining, and they ceased to importune him. A number of 
little boys who had observed us occasionally pulling flowers 
and plants, ran about collecting for us, and after presenting 
what they had gathered, with much politeness, ran away 
laughing with an arch expression of ridicule at our cu 
riosity. 

On our way back, instead of going directly off' to the 
.ships, we coasted along shore in our boats, which gave us 
a new view of a stone bridge, of one arch, connecting two 
parts of the town. On the south side of the bridge we 
passed a space of considerable extent, probably set apart as 
a burying ground. We saw here a number of large horse 
shoe tombs like those used in China, whitewashed, and 
-apparently kept in good repair. Most of the tombs, 
.however, are in the form of small square houses, with low 

 GREAT LOO-CHOO ISLAND. 

77 

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pyramidal roofs ; some of these were tiled, others thatched. 
It is evident that, in what relates to the dead, they follow, 
in some respects, the Chinese customs. 

The whole coast at this place is of coral cliffs, the base 
of which appears to have been scooped out by the action of 
the sea. As this excavation is at some places higher than 
the waves of the sea can be supposed to have ever reached, 
there is difficulty in assigning the sea as the cause; yet 
the roof of the excavation is horizontal for a great extent, 
and its appearance, in every other respect, suggests that it 
has been formed by the dashing of the waves. There is, 
moreover, some difficulty in accounting for coral cliffs being 
so much above the level of the sea, in which, according 
to every supposition, they must have been formed. 

The scenery here, as in most countries in these climates, 
does not admit of a satisfactory description. It may be said, 
however, that it is more pleasing to the eye than that of islands 
near the equator, where the vegetation is so profusely lux 
uriant, as to overload the picture with foliage to the exclusion 
of every thing else. Here there is much variety ; the nu 
merous groves of pine-trees give some parts of it an 
English air, but the style of landscape is what is called 
tropical. The general character of the scenery at this spot 
is faithfully preserved in the drawing of Napakiang. 

 78 

VOYAGE TO THE 

GREAT LOO-CHOO ISLAND. 

79 

ipth of September.—No answer having yet come from 
the Great Man, we begin to apprehend that they are going 
to treat us in Chinese style, and exclude us from their country 
altogether. We have tried in vain to discover whether the 
King is at this place, or a hundred, or as some maintain, a 
thousand miles off; in the mean time, as we know the 
island to be not more than sixty miles long, it is fair to 
suppose that they wish to deceive us. 

We conjecture that a large building on a rising ground, 
three or four miles from us in an eastern direction, with 
two flag-staffs near it, is the palace mentioned in the ac 
count quoted by Père Gaubil, Lettres Edifiantes et Curieuses, 
Tom. XXIIL The natives always refuse to give any in 
formation when asked about this building. 

Whenever the natives come on board, if at all well 
dressed, they are asked into the cabin, where we treat 
them with cherry brandy and Constantia. In the course 
of conversation they contribute a number of new words, 
and, in general, when they see what the object is, are very 
willing to lend their assistance, and take much pains to teach 
us the true pronunciation of their words. One man, how 
ever, who was not so quick as they generally are, was in 
the cabin to-day for some time; Mr. Clifford was getting 
from him the Loo-choo words for sour, sweet, salt, &c. ; 

and in order to make him comprehend the questions, made 
him taste different things that were sour, sweet, and so on : 
the poor fellow stood this very well, till some quassia was 
given to him to get the word " bitter;" he had no sooner 
tasted it, than he ran off quite astonished at the manner in 
which he had been entertained. 

It blew hard this morning, so that there was little in 
tercourse with the shore ; but towards sunset it moderated, 
and Ookooma, Jeema, and four other Chiefs, came on board, 
bringing with them a present of a bullock, two hogs, goats, 
and vegetables. The Chief whose name is Shayoon is 
the most clever of them all ; he is next in rank to Ookooma, 
but he generally takes the lead in discussion; he has a 
quick intelligent look, with more determination in his 
manner than any of the others. They were very par 
ticular on all these state occasions to observe the order of 
precedence, and no one sat down till his superior was 
seated. When any subject was discussed, one at a time 
rose to speak, but not in order of rank, and they never at 
tempted to interrupt one an.other. 

The weather at this moment looked so stormy, that I 
went on board the Lyra to prepare for a gale ; by which I 
lost a very interesting conference with the chiefs. I learnt 

;, I 

 80 

VOYAGE TO THE 

from Captain Maxwell afterwards, that he had remonstrated 
with them on their inconsistency and the pretended difficulty 
of getting answers from court; he gave them to under 
stand, that he did not conceive it was treating the King of 
England with due respect to deny his officers permission to 
walk on shore. Again, that they had promised to send pilots, 
but that none had come ; and that many other promises had 
not been performed. He desired the interpreter to say, that 
he was not pleased with their telling him so many different 
stories, all of which could not be true ; first they said that 
the bullocks, hogs, &c. were gifts from themselves ; then, that 
they were sent by the Great Man ; then, that there was no 
Great Man here : in fine, he urged them strongly to tell him 
the truth on all points. They made the interpreter repeat six 
times over what Captain Maxwell had desired him to say ; 

ί 

they then consulted amongst themselves a long time, and at 
last assured Captain Maxwell, that a reply to the com 
munications made by them to government would reach this 

place next day. 

As the stock and vegetables received by the ships had, 
by this time, amounted to a considerable quantity, a bag 
of dollars was offered to them, and they were urged to 
take payment for what had been sent on board; this 

GREAT LOO-CHOO ISLAND. 

81 

offer, which had been made more than once before, was 
still declined ; upon which they were informed, that we con 
sidered it improper, as servants of government, to receive 
presents to such an extent from individuals. Upon this 
they gave their assurance, that the stock had been sent 
on board by order of the Loo-choo government, on their 
being informed that the King of another country's ships had 
arrived. No payment they said could therefore be taken. 
With this Captain Maxwell was satisfied. Their wish seems 
to be, to prevent our opening any communication with 
their government, and they appear so decided upon these 
matters, that they will probably succeed, notwithstanding 
all our efforts. 

The chiefs have dresses adapted to the state of the 
weather; yesterday being cold and threatening, they all 
came on board with a sort of cloak or great coat made of a 
thick blue stuft'like woollen cloth, buttoned in front. It is 
tighter than the ordinary dress, and is worn over it. It is 
only in fine weather, and on state occasions, that they wear 
the band turban, called by them " hatchee matchee;' at 
all other times they go uncovered, having their hair dressed 
like the rest of the people. 

20th of September.—The mercury in the barometer fell 
last night from 29- 72, to 29- öl, and the sky assumed a 

 82 

VOYAGE TO THE 

GREAT LOO-CHOO ISLAND. 

83 

yellow appearance. We expected a heavy gale, more par 
ticularly as it was so near the equinox, but we were so 
sheltered by the land, that though it appeared to blow hard 
at sea, we felt nothing of it where we lay. 

Three or four canoes came round the south-west point 
of land this forenoon ; the people in them were supposed 
to have come from the other side of the island, for they did 
not appear to have seen the ships before. One of these 
people was much delighted with a looking-glass which was 
shewn to him ι he took it in his hands, and calling his com 
panions about him, shewed them in turn its effect. Having 
done so several times, he held it opposite to his own face 
for four or five minutes without altering his countenance in 
the least ; at last he smiled, and immediately and involunta 
rily nodded assent to the image in the glass, which had so 
exactly expressed what he felt himself; he seemed, how 
ever, aware, that it wa